A610 Maytag Washer - Overview

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Belt Kit – Part Number: 12112425
$50.55
In Stock
Belt Kit
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(45)
Part #12112425
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both "V" shaped.
Rubber Injector Valve – Part Number: WP216201
$29.65
In Stock
Rubber Injector Valve
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(18)
Part #WP216201
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle.
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720
No Longer Available
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
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(13)
Part #6-2095720
This kit comes with hub assembly, agitator seal and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: 205613
$156.71
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
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(16)
Part #205613
This part has two ports for water to enter. It is blue and is intended for use with many washing machines and comes with a multi-mount bracket and an outlet adaptor.
Plastic Injector Nozzle – Part Number: WP213015
$14.95
In Stock
Plastic Injector Nozzle
Part #WP213015
This injector nozzle is just under three inches long. It is white in color and made entirely of plastic.
Tub Bearing Kit – Part Number: 6-2040130
$97.91
In Stock
Tub Bearing Kit
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(4)
Part #6-2040130
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time.
Drain Pump – Part Number: WP6-2022030
No Longer Available
Drain Pump
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(13)
Part #WP6-2022030
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
Damper Pad Kit – Part Number: 203956
$65.23
In Stock
Damper Pad Kit
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(9)
Part #203956
This damper pad kit is used for base support. It comes with three six inch damper pads, two little tubes of lubricant. NOTE: This part will need adhesive to stick it in place.
Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
$33.28
In Stock
Lid Switch
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(7)
Part #W10820036
Keep your washer or dryer running safely with this easy-to-install lid or door switch kit. It stops the machine from working when the door is open, helping prevent spills and accidents. Compatible with many models, this small but important part fits neatly inside your appliance and comes with everything you need for installation. Just unplug your machine, swap out the old switch, and you're good to go. It’s about 2.5 inches long and blends in with most interiors.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$11.52
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
Syphon Break Elbow Kit with Clamp – Part Number: 208847
$39.48
In Stock
Syphon Break Elbow Kit with Clamp
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(8)
Part #208847
Ensure your washing machine drains properly with this siphon break elbow kit, which connects the internal drain pipe to a 7/8" external hose. The elbow design creates a high point in the drain line, breaking the siphon effect and preventing wastewater from re-entering the tub. Ideal for addressing drainage problems or leaks, the kit includes a clamp for a secure fit and is easy to install. Always confirm hose size compatibility before installation.
Rubber Foot Pad – Part Number: WP210684
$22.97
In Stock
Rubber Foot Pad
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(1)
Part #WP210684
This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers.

Exact Part matches for your search term

Worm Gear – Part Number: A610
No Longer Available
Worm Gear
This part number matches the current model number A610
Part #A610

Common Symptoms of the A610

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
600 of 619 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from El Cajon, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outl et hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
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Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
600 of 658 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Whitman, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
530 of 560 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from bonita springs, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
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