110C71182011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Watched video and removed lower cover of dryer then removed and replaced the thermal cut-off .Dryer works great now.

Ignor installation video. it is for a different model dryer. The part is not accessed from rear. It is accessed from the front panel. Disconnect power. Remove two screws below front panel with cross head screwdriver. Swing panel up until it releases. No need to disconnect wires just put front panel down beside the dryer. Thermostat locate ... Read more d right in front on duct easy to identify since it has four leads. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Remove thermostat with nut driver. Contacts are labeled but hard to read. Hold thermostat so the lead number 3 (the 3 will be upside down) is on the left. Connect blue wire. White wire to top. Purple wires to bottom and right. Reverse removal procedure and you are done.

I follow the instructions from the video you guys show the only issue is putting back the tensioner in place but my brother leaves next door and help me.

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

Replaced Thermal Cut-off kit and Heating Element

Turn off Gas, unplug electric cord, remove rear cover, remove two screws holding the lint trap to the top, raise top flip[ping to the back supporting it not to damage wiring, remove bottom front cover, remove door springs, remove front cover, disengage belt tensioner, remove drum. unclip right side roller and remove, unbolt left wheel ... Read more mount from the rear and the bracket in the front, remove clips or cut off (new ones come with new clips). clean the wheel shafts, light sanding if needed, apply light coat of lithium grease. replace wheels and reassemble dryer in the reverse order from disassemble. roll drum by hand after front back on to ensure it rolls without catching. Finish and test.

Our dryer produced no heat. I thought that it was the electrical heating element because this part had failed a number of years ago. But when we received the heating element, and I opened up the back of the dryer to install it, I found that the element was OK. (Visual inspection as well as using an ohm meter.) I then ordered the thermal c ... Read more ut-off kit, (which was over a week in getting to us because Fed-Ex misdirected the shipment). Once the kit arrived it was very simple to remove the Allen-head screws on both parts, install the two new parts, reconnect the wires, replace the back panel on the dryer and hook up power and the dryer vent hose. The dryer works just fine.

Received the new lint removal from the box and install it easily

First unplug it. Take off 4 screws on back of panel, remove two small screws where dryer screen is pulled out of, place a small screw driver under front part of cover and pop is up, careful not to brake, there will be two big spring type clamps you use player to remove on each side, flip cover on back and unplug all the connectors to the ... Read more dryer timer, remove the few screws holding it, plug back in all the connectors, put back in and screw is back on, put spring clamps back on using pliers, tilt cover back in, snap cover back in, put screws back that you took out, put knob back on and done.

remove back of dryer and install part same as old part was installed

Removed old filter, replaced with new.

Watched the videos available. Opened the top and saw tub jumping. Unplugged and removed front panel. Saw tub rollers were broken or melted. Removed tub watched more videos, and installed the felt belt I got from PartsSelect. Trouble removing the tub rollers, but finally got them off. The axles had a sticky residue which I removed wi ... Read more th 220 grit sandpaper. I installed new rollers I had bought locally. Reassembled dryer. Worked quietly and smoothly, and it no longer shut itself down. Worked well for one day when it started.s loud noise with bumping. I found both rollers had lost their outer rim , and the tub was running on hard plastic and there was sticky residue back on the ankles. I stopped there.

Tested the two thermostats, thermal fuse and the hi limit cut off for conductivity. The hi limit tested open. The others tested closed. Replaced the hi limit. Cleaned lint from the lint duct assembly after removing the two hex head screws that hold the assembly to the blower housing. The lint was packed in there solid. Cleaned up a ... Read more ll around. Reassembled everything. Looks and works like brand new. Access was completely from the front panel. CAUTION: The rear panel is spot welded on although it has eight or nine hex head screws also, and when you remove them, the holes don't line up for replacing them. Took a lot of head scratching and time to get things lined up so the screws would go back in again. Don't try to remove the rear panel like the video shows.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

Disassembled dryer, removed tumbler, replaced drum support rollers