110203 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, a ... Read more nd fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.

I watched a YouTube video first. Followed instructions exactly and had washer going in 30 minutes!!!! Part that I ordered was an exact fit! Thanks to partselect.com!

see you tube on how too

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm ... Read more nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

First, this is the second time the transmission actuator went bad. The first-time washer was still under warrenty and I watched the tech replace it. This time warranty has expired and I'm mechanically inclined, so I ordered the part. Replacing was easy, unplug, tip washer up so you can get under it, remove plastic guard (two hex nuts) and ... Read more remove actuator by removing two screws. Reverse procedure to install new actuator. The only caution I will say is when tipping washer if you have a wall to lean it against, perfect, just put something under it for saftey so it can't fall on you.

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

had to change out wiring harness was not compatible

Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline groo ... Read more ves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Removed three screws on back to open top panel, used small vice grip to pull on suspension rod to unhook and remove from the drum. Remove and replaced one at a time so the rods keep drum suspended and prevent from dropping in the cabinet . Reinstalled top panel and done .Very easy completed in about 20 minutes.

Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the cont ... Read more acts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done

Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in re ... Read more verse and it worked perfectly!!