110203 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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Machine would stop at spin cycle
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from COHOES, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After disconnecting water lines and power, tip machine onto its back. The actuator is located under the drum. Remove the cover over the motor/ drive belt. Actuator is located by the transmission and held on by several screws. Unplug the wiring harness and remove three screws with Phillips screwdriver. Install new actuator..
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F7 e1 code
12 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jane from WILDORADO, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Thought we needed a new shift actuator but after getting the parts and starting the replacement noticed the capacitor had come loose and was banging around under the washer. Found there was a little wire to the shift actuator that was cut probable from the capacitor being loose. spliced the wire back together and replaced the capacitor b
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ut not the shift actuator and its been working great. was an easy fix and easy to get to. Didn't need the maytag man when we can get parts from here.
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Whirlpool builds junk lid switches don't lasting when you have suffered water! About every 3 months it goes out! Repairman won't come to fix so I do it myself!
13 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charlie from OAKWOOD, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 228 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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The tub would spin but it was weak. The splines were stripped on the drive hub.
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from EAU CLAIRE, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Pulled the agitator, un-screwed the drive hub, cleaned the splines on the transmission, vacuumed the debris out of the tub. The repair video said to put towels or something down in the tub so if you drop a screw it will catch it. Put it back together and re-calibrated it. It didn't want to go into the calibrate mode until i moved the mode
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switch all the way to the left and then right first. Good quality factory parts!
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FAULTY LATCH-WASHER WOULD NOT GO INTO SPIN MODE
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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EVAN from STOCKTON SPGS, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
THE NEW LATCH COMES WITH A NEW BEZEL ATTACHED, WHICH MOUNTS TO THE TOP OF THE WASHER, JUST UNDERNEATH THE LID. BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL BEZEL WAS IN PERFECT CONDITION AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, I DECIDED TO REMOVE THE BEZEL ON THE NEW LATCH, AND USE THE ORIGINAL ONE. THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE DONE REGARDLESS IN ORDER TO INSTALL THE NEW LATCH. REMO
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VING THE BEZEL WAS DIFFICULT DUE TO ALL THE LOCKING TABS THAT KEEP IT IN PLACE. I HAD TO RESTRAIN THE SLIDING SWITCH PARTS WHILE I REMOVED TO BEZEL TO AVOID THE ASSEMBLY FROM COMING APART. ONCE I SNAPPED THE NEW LATCH TO THE EXISTING BEZEL, THE ASSEMBLY WORKED FINE. TAKE TIME TO STUDY HOW THE LATCH ASSEMBLY IS ATTACHED TO THE BEZEL SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK SOMETHING. USE A VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO PRY BACK THE PLASTIC TABS IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE BEZEL FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.
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The main knob insert snapped.
11 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from HICKORY, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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Slow Spin Cycle with Fast/Normal Agitator
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from AURORA, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Socket set
My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound
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of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!
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drive hub splines were warn off. Thus no agitation was possible. Coins from laundry probably made increased friction to cause excessive ware on the splines.
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from HILTON, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Force the thin nylon strap around and down into the perimeter of the agitator. Draw it snug to the center. The strap must be long enough to make a complete loop up to the top of the tub. Insert a fairly stout wooden stick through the loop so that an upward prying motion of the stick applies a vertical force on the agitator. While the
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force is applied pound on the lower part of the agitator so that it will break it free from the motor's axel. Of course remove the center bolt first after removing the small hub cover.
Applying liquids to the connection did not help. Just a steady upward force and a few rubber hammer blows to the lower part of the agitator di the trick.
Applying liquids to the connection did not help. Just a steady upward force and a few rubber hammer blows to the lower part of the agitator di the trick.
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replaced drain hose that was missing
12 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
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Water would not stop flowing.
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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melinda from HARROGATE, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
*be sure to turn water off, unplug machine, and unscrew the water hoses from the rear of the washer.
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.< ... Read more br />5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.< ... Read more br />5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!
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During the Spin cycle the washer was noisy and moved around
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from HERNANDO, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no
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tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!
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Washer was stuck on rinse cycle
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from HARWICH PORT, MA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Research showed it was the transmission and the actuator . Parts were super easy to install and it solved the issue 100%
PS - I put some light lithium grease on the transmission and it’s quieter than it was when new
PS - I put some light lithium grease on the transmission and it’s quieter than it was when new
Other Parts Used:
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No cold water
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Greg from HAVELOCK, IA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Cold and hot water valve .easy as pie.
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Water leaking at front left of washer especially after heavy loads
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kynrick from DENTON, TX
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.
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