LAT4915AAM Maytag Washer - Instructions

The washing machine would only fill with cold water. This could be a problem with the controls, the wiring or the valve where the external hoses connect. Various tests, which only those with the proper skills & equipment should perform, revealed that the water valve hot side was not opening. UNPLUG the washing machine before doing any ... Read more work and especially before opening any access panels. NOTE: Label all fasteners & other connections you remove so you know where they should go back. WITH the Washing Machine UNPLUGGED from the wall outlet, I unscrewed the external hot & cold hoses (make sure the water is turned off first!). I unscrewed the panel that holds the valve in a recess in the back of the machine. On this machine, the panel pulls out of the back with the valve attached to it. So I pulled the panel/valve assembly out of the recess and disconnected its electrical connectors (double-check the washing machine is unplugged before doing this). I also disconnected the internal hose that leads from the valve. Finally, I detached the valve from the panel. Installation is the reverse of removal, although it is a good idea to use a new spring clip or hose clamp, whichever you have, to attach the internal hose to your new valve. Once the valve assembly is properly installed, connect your external hoses, double-checking for hot & cold sides carefully, turn the water on and check for leaks. When all that is ok, plug the washer in and test it.

I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the ... Read more washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not m ... Read more uch room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

The job went fast an well

Used the online trouble shooting info. Tested as was requested. Found the lid switch. Noticed the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and noticed only water was cominf in. Ordered new lid switch assembly. Came with 48 hrs! Replaced and washed clothes! Great service!

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

Unpluged the washer and removed the top cover. Removed the screws holding the switches and unplug the wires. The process was very easy and the washer worked like a new one.

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the d ... Read more rive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. ... Read more Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and ... Read more water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

1. Unplug power to the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel
3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket.
4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.
5. From the back of the wash ... Read more er, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left.
6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right.
7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.
8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference)
9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer.
10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp.
11. Rotate the top back down into normal position.
12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks.
13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket.
14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part s ... Read more elect to get my parts. Thanks

Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving ... Read more motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.