JBS55DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

The repair took Less than 20 Mins. So easy anyone that is handy should be able to do this with ease. And PartSelect is great to order from Order was placed on a Weekend and order was at my home on Tues! Thats a one day shipping and it was a ground shipment!!! Great Job PartSelect!!!!!! Mark

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

When we moved into our new home I discovered that the oven that came with the home did not have any racks in it. I ordered these racks because they said they were compatible with Hotpoint ovens. However, when the racks arrived they were just a tad too wide to easily slide in the oven. With a bit of force my husband was able to shove the racks in. Luckily I don't cook enough to care if they are moved again because I don't think they'll come out easily.

Removed the 2 screws on plate. Pulled wires forward. Simply detached slide on connecters and inserted new element. Pushed back and installed plate. Dont forget to unplug the 220 volt. Though open can ground wires.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Removed control knob. Removed back panel (3) screws with a nut driver. Removed two screws holding the burner switch. Followed the wiring exactly the way it was on the bad burner switch. Don’t forget to take a picture of the wiring before you start in case you get lost. Took about five minutes to change the switch. My wife is very happy with her operational front burner.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then I disconnected the two wires and pulled the element out. I ordered the part and received it within two days. It was very easy to install. My oven was tunning in less than half an hour.

took 2 screws out of the element, then too the back off pluged in the element replaced two screws done

Un plug the power first.

Took the old element out and removed two nut holding the element in place. Remved back access panel on the back bottom of the unit. Disconnected wiring to part pulling the clip off of the connector.

Done fixed saved the house call.

loosen interior panel of oven with star driver. Removed broken arm. install inner screw and then install final screw to both panels and handle.

The inner screw mount only through the exterior door only making it tricky to line up the final bolt which goes through both panels and the handle.

Other than that it when smoothly.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Pulled the range away from the wall. Took two screws off of top cover with 1/8th socket wrench. Took small Philips head screw off the top, just leaned the cover away from the top. It still held in slots at its bottom so no need to drop it away from the range. Removed the dial from the front exposing two small Philips head screws. Removed screws, and pulled the comptroller away from the rear of the range. Held the new one in the same position as the old one and removed one connection at a time, and replaced them into the new part. Did everything in reverse to put it all back together. Believe me, easy as could be and you just saved $200 repair man cost. Part matched old part exactly.