IME31301 Inglis Range - Instructions

Unpluged range for safety (power earlier removed by circuit breaker turnoff).
Removed two screws from front switch cover.
Removed knob from effected switch and removed the wires on the back of the switch.
Removed two screws holding switch and removed switch.
Reversed the process to install new switch.
The entire project took about ten minutes.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Turn off power, remove damage knobs and element, clean up burner and scorched surfaces, order parts, when received, installed

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

1. Pull range out from wall
2. Unplug range
3. Remove back cover using drill and screwdriver bit
4. Remove dial handle on affected burner dial
5. Remove two screws to unattach broken infinite switch
6. Disconnect wires from broken infinite switch
7. Reconnect wires to new infinite switch
8. Attach new infinite switch using two screws
9. Use pliers to snap off end of post to fit your burner dial, if necessary. It was on ours.
10. Reconnnect dial handle.
11. Reattach back cover using drill and screwdriver bit.
12. Plug range back in
13. Relocate stove against wall

turner off circuit breakers for range, i rolled the range out from between counter tops so i could see the burner sw. using a flash light read all the numbers on the switch to my wife who wrote then down, knowing what the switch looked like i could find could find correct instruction video on parts select & check the switch numbers & ordered it. replacing- made myself a drawing of the wiring connections, replacing switch-power off, unscrewed mounting bracket, removed switch, removed ONE WIRE AT A TIME & CONNECTED IT TO SAME TERMINAL ON THE NEW SWITCH, remounted the switch & turner on circuit breakers

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

Unplug the stove from outlet so no power going to appliance. Had to use wd on screws to help loosen
Little bit of effort to loosen. Took new element from package. Replaced screws just tight donot over tighten. Plug stove into outlet turned on. Did a automatic clean. Oven clean and baked cake later I am back in business and 63 years. Was quote 240.00 to from a local repair person. When using wd make sure you wipe any drip from before turning on oven.

I disconnected power cord from house current. Removed back panels (2). I then removed round knob on front of range. I then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in place. After doing that, I gently removed the actual switch itself from back of face panel. I then separated the 2 elements of the switch.

I took new replacement switch and reinstalled the 2 parts of switch and placed back into hole in face panel. I reinserted the 2 front screws that holds the switch in place. I put the selection knob back on. However, the knob does not fit tightly. The shaft on the switch itself is to long, but the switch works fine. You do not even know that knob sticks out further than before. I plugged unit back into house current and tested range element to see if it works. It did so with no problem. I then replaced rear panels and secured all screws back to their original location and that was all there was to it.

No problem. Was a fast and effective installation.

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

Remove old receptacle and connected and replace new one. Burner now works perfectly again.

removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip

Unplug and pull out range.
Unscrew the back of the range with Phillips #2.
Unplug wiring harness from switch.
Unscrew the switch from the front of the range with P2 driver.
Install and plug in new switch.
Remove the spring steel knob retainer from shaft.
Cut off extra knob shaft with dremel to match others (there is a narrow segment at the proper length).
Reinstall knob retainer, knob, and range panels.