GTWN4250D0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

unscrewed back top cover. unscrewed control panel, replace new control panel.

Ordered lid switch from parts select via website. Two days later I received the part in the mail. Instead or re-wiring, I cut wire close to existing bad switch. Splice two wires and cap with wire nuts. Zip tie loose wire to tub housing.

watched the video, and it was simple!

Easy to replace, take off the front cover take off hoses unscrew and attach the new pump. Problem wasn't the pump. Now that I have a new pump, not sure what to do next.

I was about to buy a new washer but thought I'd give this a go. I'm about average with mechanical things and good with electrical. The washer would work great for 10 loads then suddenly we'd come in and it wouldn't have drained. We would turn it to "spin and drain" and that would take care of it. Then it started happening more. And, since we moved, the water was always hotter than we were setting it for. I think the cold water shut entry valve was failing.

Unplug the washer. Pull off the front panel there are two clips 1" below the top, where the panel and the top meet. Slide a 1" putty knife about 5" from the right edge and push to disengage the retainer. Ditto left side. The pump is exposed on the bottom right. Super easy to remove but make sure you have 4" glass cooking pan or another way to get the water that remains in the line that goes to the washer tub. The hardest part is those stupid retaining clips. The back one is too far to get two hands back there, so holding the wrench, the pump, and the hose is almost impossible without another set of hands, which I didn't have. Took me 15 minutes for one clip. I suggest you first unplug the electrical and unbolt the pump before you do it so you can get more reach with the hoses. Ditto on the reverse.

I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time as the inlet valves. Unscrew three bolts to the back of the washer top where the controls are. Move the washer forward 3" so its not even with the dryer if the dryer is on the right side of the washer. The top assembly pops out and then to the right 3/4" to remove it. Take a picture of the electrical connections before you do anything. Unplug all the quick disconnect electrical connections so you don't mess up and smack the circuit boards, or pull too hard on a wire. Set it aside. The valve replacement is straight forward, just a few nuts holding it down, adjustable pliers to unscrew the hoses, and a hose clamp. Remove the valve. Then remove the temperature sensor. It's held in place on top of the water inlet, the Y-shaped part inside the washing machine that lets the water drop down. You need to unscrew that Y-shaped piece with its 2 sheet metal screws. Easy job. Pull it out and guide the electrical wires down the hole. Replace the sensor and reinstall the opposite way. But, you will see some tape on the wires which I think is to make sure the jiggling and vibrations don't rub through the insulation where it hits the metal (in the area where the valves are). Get some strapping tape or something to protect it. Carefully pull the wires back up the channel and tape around the areas that contact the metal when the wire turns 90 degrees to be plugged in. Install the valves. Plug everything back in. In my washer the electrical connections are all keyed so you shouldn't be able to plug it into the wrong spot. However, the red wire on the temperature sensor that goes to the far left can be plugged into a different slot if you aren't careful. Check the photo. Also, use zip ties to keep the wires from bouncing around.

I ran a few loads before putting the front back on. I don't recommend that if you have kids or stupid adults or cats or .... so cordon off the area if you aren't alone. That way you can see if you have any leaks from the pump and you don't have to take things apart again.

All works fine now! The biggest cost of the job is your labor, so if you are replacing the valves, buy and replace the temperature sensor because it tells the valves when to open and close. It might be the faulty part and not the valve. Good luck.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Removed the bolt holding the agitator coupler on, replaced it and the bolt then slid the agitator on the coupler and the fabric softener dispenser on top of that.... so easy!!

First I googled the problem. Then ordered your part, from specs on your website. Went to Lowes and bout butt splicers. Then when I got email that it shipped I watched the video attached. Awesome. Very proud as I am a woman. Video was excellent. Thank you, Maureen

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

This is so simple it's ridiculous. First, pull the "control knobs" off the front of the washer. Next, take the three screws (nut driver type) off the back panel then slide the loose front panel towards you and it's off. Take the part(s) you're replacing off-there are two sections joined by a flat electrical "cord" with a total of 5 nut driver screws (but a smaller size than the ones on the back panel). Tip the Control Board up from the bottom to pull it out of the unit. Unplug the 3 electrical contacts that go to the Electronic Control Board and throw away the old control board. Reverse steps to put it all back together. I did this all in less than 10 minutes. I'm pretty handy around the house, but if you know which end of a nut driver to grip, you can do it just as fast.