FGS337GW0 Roper Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the FGS337GW0
91 - 105 of 131

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Both outside door handles turned very beige
23 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol oring refer handles. Thank you
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Drawer glide was missing and the trim on the door was broken
12 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Lakewood, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Ordered the replacement part., removed the old trim from the door and reinstalled the new trim. On the drawer glide, I simply reattached a new one to replace the one missing.
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Door trim (sides and bottom) needed replacing.
  • Ralph from Canon City, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove the bottom drawer. Remove the two Phillips head screws on the top inside of the door. Pull up on the handle (CAUTION: Be sure to hold the glass front against the door while doing this or the glass front can fall, possibly damaging it. Remove the glass front by lifting it towards the top of the door. Remove the two side pieces and t he bottom trim piece by unscrewing the Phillips head screws located on the underside of the bottom trim piece. Discard the old trim pieces. Attach the new metal bottom trim piece using three of the previously removed screws. Do not tighten the screws at this time. Each plastic side piece has a nipple at the bottom. Insert this nipple into the outermost hole at each end of the bottom trim piece. The edge of the flange on each side piece should face inward. Have an assistant hold the two side pieces against the door frame while you slide the glass back in. The inward facing flanges go UNDER the glass. Reinstall the top piece making sure the indentations at the top of the side pieces are under the top piece. Install and tighten the two screws that hold the top piece on. Tighten the three screws holding the bottom trim piece.
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Oven would not light
  • Gary from Springfield, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts se lect to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.
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Oven would not come on.
  • Edie from Paducah, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.
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Igniter Glows but gas never comes to ignite.
  • Paul from State College, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Since the broiler worked fine, I took the igniter from the broiler (exact same) and moved it to the bottom and sure enough oven ignited fine. I did this to isolate the problem, because it could have been either the igniter or the valve. I put the broiler igniter back on top when I got the new part, because it is used only 5% of the time. Be aware that you may need to rummage for some machine screws because the factory screws stripped when I removed them. The oven must have annealed them.
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The plastic trim piece broke and the bottom metal trim was rusted
  • Susan from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!
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Oven Self Clean Would Not Function
  • dennis from tonganoxie, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !
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Burner head was warped.
  • Ellen from Demorest, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to take two screws out and then pulled up on the burner head. I then installed the new part. It works great.
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Igniter was glowing but not enough to catch the catch the burner
  • Bruce from Dacula, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Really quite simple. Remove the racks - remove the two screws in the back of the bottom plate - slide out. remove the bottom drawer. remove the two screws holding the igniter - unplug the old igniter and remove. screw in new igniter, plug up new igniter, replace bottom drawer, replace bottom pate, replace racks. I did turn off the ga s and electricity to the unit before repairing - and it was easier for me to get behind the unit to unplug/plug the igniter. works great! thanks!
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Oven would not light
  • Marva from McDonough, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I shut off the gas and removed the back plate and disconnected the wires. Then I unscrewed two screws from the igniter and replaced the old with the new. Then I snapped the wires together and put the back plate back on. The oven works great!
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oven will not heat up
  • Marie from Schaumburg, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
most difficult part was having to pull the stove out to access the Igniter wire connector. unplugged connector, removed 2 Igniter mounting screws, installed new Igniter and connected plug. very easy project. less than 30 minutes total thanks to website for perfect diagnosis of problem
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The Oven Did Not Come On.
  • lore from lampasas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It only took my husbend 6min to put in the new oven igniter. But it did not work, so I call your center and the rep there talk my husbend and told him how to unluck the key bord, and that worked. Thank you for all the help.
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The old panel becamed worped & the finish was distressed.
  • Mike from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took the old one out and replaced it with the new one, fits perfect.
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The old glide broke
  • Dave from Tampa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Its was very easy, I unscrewed the old part and screwed on the new one and put the drawer back in place and it works perfect.
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All Instructions for the FGS337GW0
91 - 105 of 131