F1253FDS3 (ASSEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Tilt the unit back. Remove screws that hold the clean out. Disconnect the electric plugs and hoses. Remove pumps and housing. Change out pumps. Put back together reverse order

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Opened rear compartment of washer and observed problem with drum shaft slipping inside of plastic motor assembly. The plastic teeth used to secure drum shaft were worn down. The part I needed was sent as an assembly but should have been sent separately for a much lower cost? The new part looked like it was of a sturdier design. All in all I saved hundreds of dollars repairing the washer my self. The woman I spoke to on the phone was really nice and very helpful.

My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

took lid off of washer (slides back, not pry) and had to dismantle from springs, rubber around door and pistons on bottom. also had to disconnect from electrical plugs and took out dispenser drawer and all hoses. also have to take off magnetic piece devices from off back of drum. mark everything before dismantling with a black permanent marker so you will know what went where when putting back together and what pieces were facing up,top, etc. once get everything freed up, entire tub pulls up out of the washer. get old shot bearings out of drum, but be careful not to beat on it too much so that you don't damage the shaft or "oblong" the tub, etc. ordered parts that arrived in about 2 days. to put new bearings back in, get large washers -one for front and one for back -same size as the bearings so you will have equal pressure coming from front and back, put a long bolt thru the holes in the bearings with one of the large washers on each end. put a nut on the end of the bolt and begin to tighten. this will pull the bearings together back into their positions without ruining them and gives you equal pressure all around. be careful when you get them tight, they will fit snugly back into place. put it all back together carefully, just like you took it apart. if you labeled everything, you should have no problem putting the puzzle back together. before putting the tub pieces back together, i ran a bead of silicone caulk to prevent leaks. started it back up and runs great! fixed it for total of $72 (including shipping charges), which is a lot cheaper than buying a new washing machine. it is tedious and somewhat challenging, but if you are in any way mechanical, you shouldn't have any problems.

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

disasemble the whole mashine... split outer tank...pound out old bearings... press in new... reassemble.... look for leaks... repair man estament..$900...cost me less than 100.. took 4 hours

If you are not mechanically inclined and don't have any experience replacing bearings I wouldn't even attempt this repair. I'm a mechanic/welder/fabricator so it wasn't to bad for me. I did need to us a bearing puller to get the damaged bearing off the shaft. The whole job took me about 3 1/2 hours. About $80 in parts. Appliance repair guy quoted me $600 to fix it.