CGS365HZ0 Crosley Range - Instructions

I use the table knife to slide the side of the stove to open the top. then I traced one of the wire to where it was hooked up and remove it and replaced it. I did them one by one.

The brief comments on how to with the order was most helpful, no problems replacing frame. Quality is good I thought the price was very high for the parts, considering plastic and metal pieces, but then again compared to new stove reasonable. Remove pieces replace back in order removed.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

Took off oven door removed all screws to get old hinges out. Replaced with new hinges and put the door back together.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.

Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.

Replaced bottom trim included in kit.
Installed side door trim.
While trying to slide glass front in place both plastic side trims broke.
Had to use already broken door trim and glued in. Just hope when use oven glue doesn’t melt and will have to replace entire oven.

Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board.
Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part.
Thank you!

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burner head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.

Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Snap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners.
One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564