AGM359 Amana Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AGM359
121 - 135 of 370

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Our Maytag dryer wouldn't spin under a load of wet clothes.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Daryl from WESTBOROUGH, MA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front p anel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.
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The belt wore a groove in the belt tention roller and started sliping.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from Mesa, AZ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I took out the 2 screws on the bottom of the front cover, pulled out at the bottom, disconnected the 2 wires for the front door and removed 2 screws on the inside top of the front panel and removed. The top of the dryer then flips over. I then tool out 4 more screws and took out the drum. I totally cleaned out the inside of the dryer and then took the oring pliers and removed the oring that held the roller on the belt tension bar and replaced it with the new one that you sent me. I put the drum back in and put the belt back on the new roller, I put the dryer back together and now I have a good dryer that will last another 10 years.
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The rollers on the drum were worn out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Vassar, MI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged dryer removed the front, removed & marked the wires. Removed the drum & drive belt. Removed the snap ring on front of roller with a pgtai awl.Removed the wheel & worn washers, removed the nut on the back of the roller shaft. reppaced it all in reversed proceedure. Other than a few little scrapes on the knuckles it was Quite easy .
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Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from MELBOURNE, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even fo r heavy loads.
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dryer not heating( after replacing the high temp. thermostat
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from HURON, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
i removed the door and front panel then removed the two screws holding the coil bracket,disconnected the two wires on coils,set new coils in place and reversed the above process
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Flame wouldn't ignite.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Bryan from YORK, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
I watched a video. The man speaking was Wayne from parts direct. He made the repair go so smoothly. I enjoyed watching him and I hope you include him in more videos. Had dryer apart and back together (after I had to take top back off, to re-attach the door switch, which I forgot. Had a senior moment!!) in 15 min.And working as good as new . Thank you Wayne. Have a nice day. Bryan
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dryer not heating
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ramon from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replace two heating coils. Dryer working find.
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Heat would quit working after a few minutes
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from CHESAPEAKE, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Installed new coil, helped but have other issues that I'm troubleshooting.
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Loud screeching from idler pulley
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from POMPTON LAKES, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.
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THe burner on the dryer would not light although the glow plug was working
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Geoffrey from Centerburg, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
First I shut off the gas supply (the valve is an in-line shut-off and it's right there. I removed both of the retaining screws and detached the gas supply line.

Remove hte valve from the mounting plate (two more screws) and then reversed the process to replace the part.

It works just fine, thank you very much!!
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dryer door would not stay closed.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • maria from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I unscrewed the door catch and pried out with some resistance the strike part. Screwed in the catch and pushed in the strike. Closed door. Voila!! Back in business with assurance.
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The door switch was defected
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Pete from ANAHEIM, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.
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Broken prong
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Amarillo, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.
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Igniter works, valves open, gas Ignitestation then shuts off
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.
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switch clip broke
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JEROME from NILES, IL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.
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All Instructions for the AGM359
121 - 135 of 370