A25CS Maytag Washer - Instructions

Good.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixe ... Read more d to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

Water Inlet Valve: Unplugged machine from the AC receptacle!! Disconnected inlet hoses from valve, removed 5/16" screws securing valve to machine rear cover, removed wires from valve, disconnected the fill hose at the valve being careful not to let it fall into the machine, attached the same hose to the new valve along with the wires b ... Read more eing careful to make sure they were attached to the right connectors and attached securely, placed the valve into the place where the old one had been and secured it with the aforementioned 5/16" screws, Done!!
Hose: Removed front machine cover by removing two screws at the bottom of the machine, removed to clamps, pulled hose from connections, replaced hose with NEW clamps!! Done!

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece ... Read more on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. T ... Read more hey said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.

Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame.
Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new ... Read more valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine.
These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw ... Read more until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

Removed front, loosened top & tilted up. Placed tub top assuring it would not rub inner basket. Placed clamp on Ridge & gasket & tightened. Reassembled & started washing.

Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins).
Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already li ... Read more sted here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order.
One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck!
PartSelect: Great website/catalog, great service.

Removed front access panel--very easy, two screws at bottom of panel, near the floor. Removed two more hex-headed screws that secure the top panel/lid to the top of the washing machine frame.
Most difficult problem was identifying the source of the leak. I saw water running out of a white, rectangular (about 1" x 3/4" x 3/4") box-l ... Read more ike device that was installed in the water line that leads from the mixing valve (blue box, mounted at the back of washer) to the top of the tub. Discovered this device is called the injector assembly, have not yet been able to figure out what function it serves.
Disconnected one of the hose clamps that secure the injector assembly to the water hose. Removed the rubber injector valve and injector nozzle, the two parts that fit inside the above-described "box." Soaked the assembly "box" in vinegar to eliminate hard-water deposits. Replaced the two internal parts (injector nozzle & injector valve) with new (about $15, including shipping). This almost resolved the problem, still saw a small amount of water leaking from the whole assembly, but only about 5% of what was leaking. Haven't yet figured out why it's not completely dry, or what function that injector assembly serves.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion ... Read more of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on ... Read more the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.

I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.

I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.

Tom Nelson
Fort Worth, TX

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one ... Read more on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!