Rubber Injector Valve WP216201

Official part for Maytag, Jenn-Air

★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Part Location Diagram of WP216201 Whirlpool Rubber Injector Valve
See part 10 in the diagram
Replacing your Maytag Washer Rubber Injector Valve
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
Proudly Canadian
$29.65
In Stock

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About This Part

What it does. Why it matters. Everything you need to know for an easy fix.

Rubber Injector Valve Specifications

This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle.
Part #WP216201
Manufactured by Whirlpool for Maytag, Jenn-Air

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Replacing your Maytag Washer Rubber Injector Valve

Replacing your Maytag Washer Rubber Injector Valve

About this fix

Common problems and models this part fixes.

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

What this part fixes:
  • Leaking
Works with the following products:
  • Washer
  • Washer Dryer Combo
Part# WP216201 replaces these:
AP6005883, 2-13016, 2-16201, 213016, 216201

Customer Reviews

Real ratings from other people who bought this part.

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18 Reviews
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Repair Tips

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Average repair rating from 66 real customers like you

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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Front load washing machine leaking on floor while in fill mode.
175 of 185 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from Wyandotte, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.
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For several years the washer has moaned and groaned while filling, and filled slower than when new. It seemed to be associated with the inlet water valves. Then, it began to leak water from time to time, with the frequency and amount increasing.
67 of 72 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Macungie, PA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water pouring from under the machine.

I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with).

I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water).

The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)

I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free.

(Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)
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Washing Machine was leaking water
62 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jeff from lindenhurst, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Loosened the hose clamp, removed the injector valve and injector nozzle assembly, replaced both and tightened with new hose clamp. Fixed the problem for less than $20!! Washing machine is 20 years old and this was the first problem--hopefully it is now good for another 20 years!
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Leaky injector nozzle
37 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lindstrom, MN
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Water was leaking at the injector nozzle during the fill cycle. I could not visually see any damage to the existing part, but, ordered replacement parts, anyway. The new parts arrived and looked EXACTLY like the old ones. Clearly, the new parts would leak, too. So, I cut a three-inch length of 3/4-inch OD pipe and spliced the two hoses together, completely eliminating the troublesome parts. The washer works fine and does not leak. And, it fills much faster, now. I still have no clue as to the purpose of the injector nozzle nor do I know why it did NOT leak for 30 years.
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washer was leaking onto the floor
32 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Ashley Falls, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to PartSelect.com my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.
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Washer leaked from top, left corner of machine.
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Hudson, WI
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.
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Leaking water
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from scottdale, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The washer leaked only when i used warm or hot water. I found that the rubber injector valve would get to soft when using hot water,allowing the water to leak through and bubble out and onto the floor. I went ahead and replaced the injector nozzle, injector sleeve and the rubber injector valve. I ordered the parts monday morning and they arrived the next day. Excellent service.
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Water was leaking on the floor
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Park City, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how to open up the washing machine.
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The hot water intake valve did not function
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Huntington Beach, CA
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This clothes washer is 35 years old and runs like a champ. I did notice a bit of water below the left rear and assumed that a hose was leaking. I let it go for about 6 months, until I could fit it into the "to-do" list. During that time, the hot/cold water intake valve died. I ordered the replacement hot/cold valve a month ago but noticed, upon removal of the valve, that there was significant water drip evidence around the electrical valve solenoids. The water drips caused the valve to die. Drips came from a clogged injector hose air break directly above the valve. Replaced all hoses and water level vacuum air line. Very easy process. The front drops off with two screws. The lid is off with two screws. All hoses easy to R/R. It took about 2 hours to complete. All replacement parts were perfect. My belts are fine so I'm ready for another 30 years of service.
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Washer leaking from left side during fill
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from Davis, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested.
To begin:
1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.
2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.
3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve.
4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe.
5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.
6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.
7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp.
8. Replace the lid and the screws.
9. Replace the face cover and the screws.
10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test.

I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.
Best
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DIY Questions and Expert Answers

5 questions answered by our Repair Experts.

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Joel - For model number A882
December 10, 2017
Hi, i would like to order these two parts: Wp213015 and Wp216201. The plastic injector and the valve. Would this be the correct parts to go with this model
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Joel, Thank you for your question. Yes, both of those parts are listed underneath your model information as compatible parts. Good luck with your repair.
19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Tom
December 7, 2019
What is the function of this injector? Partselect number ps11738945 will my washer be damaged if replace it with a piece of tubing?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Tom, this part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. I would not recommend diy solutions. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Reg - For model number A412
June 27, 2021
I would like to replace both the injector valve and the rubber hose the injector valve fits inside of, on my Maytag A412 washer. Can you give me the correct part numbers that I need? Also the switch when you open and close the lid needs to be replaced.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Reg, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS1583805 for the Valve, PS11738877 for the Hose and PS11723153 for the Lid Switch. We hope this helps!
$156.71
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
$33.28
In Stock
Lid Switch
$51.65
In Stock
Injector Hose
3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Joe - For model number LAT9400AAL
July 6, 2021
I need parts numbers for rubber injector valve and plastic gut piece.Thank you.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Joe, Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the rubber injector valve is PS11738945 and the part number for plastic injector nozzle is PS11738878. If you would like to place an order for the parts, you may order them either online or by calling our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Kathy - For model number A506
November 1, 2021
Please give me the parts numbers for both the rubber valve and the injector? Thank you. It’s an A506 model.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Kathy, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number: PS11738945 for the Rubber Injector Valve. The PartSelect Number PS11739774 is the Injector Sleeve Bracket - Side Mounting. Part #: PS11738878 for the Plastic Injector Nozzle and Part #: PS11738785 for the full Assembly with Hose. We hope this helps!
$106.91
In Stock
Washer Injector Hose w/Air Gap
$14.95
In Stock
Plastic Injector Nozzle
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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This Part Also Fits These Models

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Part #WP216201
Brand
Model Number
Description
Maytag
A104
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A105
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A106
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A106S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A107
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A107S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A108
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A108S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A110
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A112
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A15CA
Washer
Maytag
A15CM
Washer
Maytag
A15CT
Washer
Maytag
A16CA
Washer
Maytag
A16CM
Washer
Maytag
A16CT
Washer
Maytag
A17CA
Washer
Maytag
A17CM
Washer
Maytag
A17CT
Washer
Maytag
A180
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A181
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A182
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A183
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A18CA
Washer
Maytag
A18CM
Washer
Maytag
A18CT
Washer
Maytag
A190
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A1910
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A206
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A206S
Washer - Top Loading