91147699100 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were gu ... Read more ide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When ... Read more we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to ins ... Read more tall correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partse ... Read more lect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, ... Read more thats it...

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove t ... Read more wo femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c ... Read more onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem ... Read more perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part