9114012991 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected new one, put back in place with screws

This part is a plug-in unit - two screws off; unplug the old unit; plug in the new unit; two screws on. Very simple.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Replaced the defective element with the new - all inless than fifteen minutes!

I had to remove two screws that held these elements in place from back of oven; pull the elements out about three inches to disconnect two wires; connected wires to new elements and
replaced two screws.

A very easy job to perform thanks to right parts from PartSelect.

Turned off the power at the panel and then simply removed the two hext screws and unplugged the old element. Plugged in the new element and used a nut driver to relpace the two screws.

The bake element basically just plugs in remove the two screws in the back with a nut driver pull the element out unplug the spade connectors and reconnect the new element . As far as the clips just snap them on to the top element and snap back in the holes at the top of the oven.
Also very fast delivery less then 48 hours from ordering to delivery

switched off power to oven, unscrewed old broiling unit and installed new one.

Drilled small holes in blades to accept existing machine screws from oven wires.

Easy

Followed the instructions

By myself

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Removed the three screws from the top and bottom of the oven door. Removed the outside door cover from the inside door panel. This gave me access to the six screws that hold the two sections of the inside panel together. The glass of the inside oven window was manufactured without the installation of retainers to keep the window from moving. I installed the four retainers that I purchased. Reassembled the door. The glass now stays in place. Since there were no retainers to begin with I had to figure out how they were to be installed to prevent the glass from moving around.

My husband (a retired tool & die maker) easily removed the old bake element after first turning off the circuit. He cleaned up the burned salt that we had used to try to put the "fire" out but finally just shut down the circuit. Then just as easily istalled the new element. Thanks to your quick service, we were only without the use of the oven for a day and a half!

I shut off the power at the circuit breaker. I loosened the screws securing the baking element to the back wall. I then pulled out the baking element toward me and found the wire leads bolted using self-tapping screws to the original element. Since the holes on the mounting tabs did not take the old screws, I had to drill out the holes on the tabs of the replacement element. After securely bolting the leads to either terminal on the element, I had to drill two holes on the back wall for the mounting plate of the new element. Then I used the cordless drill with the Philips bit to drive in stainless steel self-tapping screws (not zip screws) to secure the element to the back wall. I turned on the power at the circuit breaker and reset the clock (mechanical).