9114012991 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.

[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.

Removed mounting screws and element only pulled out about 2 inches. Disconnected wires and had to drill slightly bigger hole in element ends to reattach wires. Element mounting bracket was different than old element. Had to use one existing screw hole in oven back and drill a new one.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Truned off the power took out the two screws holding the old element disconnect the power leads and put in the new element. Was great to recieve the new element in one day, the day before Xmas.

Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works like a charm!

ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

The repair was remarkably simple. Had i a nut driver, it would have been simpler still. Nonetheless, I managed to remove the nuts affixing the element to the back of the oven with a wrench, pulled out the old element, reattached the wires (they slipped in with ease), replaced the element, tightened the nuts and, presto, I was done. I suspect I saved over $100, though would rather my wife not know for fear it will be spent elsewhere;-)

The entire element was replaced. Since the oven is proably older than me (about 30 years) the holes did not light up exactly so 2 new holes had to be drilled. It is working great now and I'm happy to find a part that works.

Removed screws holding old element; removed back panel. Attached new element with old screws and replaced panel.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out disconnected the two wires. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THERE IS HARDLY ANY WIRE TO WORK WITH. Otherwise I would have been finished in ten minutes.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I just took the old oven racks out and put new oven racks in.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

I pulled the old broiler from holding clamps. I unscrewed the 2 screws holding the old broiler, pulled it out very slowly while using clips to hold the wires from going back into the wall behind the oven. That’s very important, I then pulled the old broiler off and replaced the new one. First I secured the elements on the oven clips that hold the element up, I reattach the new element, screwed the 2 screws back in. DONE My grandson helped, total time, maybe 15 minutes. Watch their video. Really easy, save money.