6651598999 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Partselect provided me with tracking information for my order, they also provided an installation video. So when I replaced the door seal it was a few minutes to remove the old seal and about five minutes to put in the new one and it was all done.Thanks to Parts select it was a piece a cake

Removed broken tin row. Replaced with new tine row. Tokk less than 1 minute.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

There was no tools involved the part popped right into place. I received the part within two days from the date placed. It was great.

Remove bottom valence to get access to 2 screws on the bottom flange of front cover. With those 2 screws removed the front panel comes off revealing the rear side of the dispenser and 6 screws that hold dispenser tightly to the inside panel. Remove 2 wires that are push connectors to solenoid. The unit simply drops out. Installation is just the reversal of removal. Very easy.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed.
I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.

Removed the plugs in the slides, removed the rack, slid the new rack in and replaced the plugs.

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

required NO tools,

just unscrew the large thumb screw, and replace the washer arm bearing!

problem solved like that!

maybe a 5 min job. part was a perfect match.

I just had to unscrew the old nut and screw the new one and install the new wash arm bearing ring.

I put the bearing ring on the washer arm and then screwed on the retainer nut.
Easy to order the needed parts

I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function.
In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well.
Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.

First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.

I read a couple of stories about how easy these are to break when installing. So I used extra care, and made sure to push carefully in just the right places.

What worked for me was raising the tines of the cup rack to apply some leverage as I squeezed the clips into place with my fingers. No tools. No broken clips. No injuries. No cursing.