6651598999 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

First I read the other repair stories and knew it was a relatively easy repair. I removed the end caps on the front of the top dish rack and removed it for ease of access to the part. I then removed the two screws holding in the old part observing how it was positioned to make sure the new part was replaced in the same manner. I put the new part in place and screwed in place and replaced the dish rack. Everything is working just fine.

First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.

You'll have to excuse me, but I'm a women and don't know the exact names for the parts.
Since my nut broke off in two parts, I had to remove the screws on top of the drain screen to get the other half. I just used a philips screwdriver and removed the 7 screws. Took out the broken part, and that was it. Put back the screws, put on the spinning water arm and put in my new part to keep it in place. Thank you. This saved alot of money for a repair person.

We unscrewed the old mount, and installed new mount, inserted screw and tightened. Waa-lah, that was all that needed to be done.

Removed the screw that held the mount in place. Snapped the new mount place (no screws required).

Fast & easy.

Replaced dispenser. Leaked around dispenser the first time i installed. Re-tightened mounting screws and everything worked OK.

Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.
I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.

Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.
Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).

replaced door seal,lower door seal and wash arm bearing ring-now it leaked when it was running.put old door seal back in and no leaks. all it needed was the wash arm bearing, also I cleaned out the inside of the water level float,which lowered the water level in the bottom of the dishwasher.

Just removed old seal and put the new on in place no problem

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Followed the video. Only issue was that the panel mount screws cracked the plastic nibs that the screws threaded into. I replaced the screws with a Chrome sheet metal screw a bit longer and it held. Easy job!

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,