110897 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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Belt broke & renter tried to fix without my knowledge
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
ALLAN W from CYRUS, MN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
When the belt broke my renter tried to fix it with duct tape and in the process the idler pulley either broke or somehow got lost. When I began to fix the dryer with a new belt,I discovered the idler was gone. SO, not knowing what it looked like was a problem. Going to the PartSelect web site I was able to see the exploded views of the
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whole dryer and pick out the right repair items. Really worked slick. Thanks. Allan W. Rutter
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Other Parts Used:
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my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
13 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dawn from Chesapeake City, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
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dryer kept running when door was open
11 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dean from New Bern, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
changed out the switch. easy. about 20 minutes. part came quickly (2-3 days). great service. thanks.
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The old door catch failed. Clothes won't dry with door open !
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Theresa from Norfolk, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.
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No heat in dryer
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Noah from Maiden, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.
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Busted Dryer Belt
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Oscar from Dallas, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I order a new belt and I watched the video instructions on how to replace it, follow the instructions, removed the top and took out the dryer tumbler or can, found a broken idler pulley, order a new one, got it in about two days, replaced all the parts and now its working like a new dryer, I called several repair shops and I got estimates
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from $65 to $150, I spend less than $35 and it took me about 35 minutes to install and I got it fixed..
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Dryer was rumbling and clanking
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
William from Burlington, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
My dryer started making a loud rumbling and clanking sound and I didn't know what was wrong.
First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front ... Read more of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.
Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.
I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.
I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).
I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.
I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).
When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.
Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).
I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.
The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.
The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).
I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.
Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p
First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front ... Read more of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.
Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.
I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.
I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).
I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.
I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).
When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.
Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).
I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.
The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.
The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).
I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.
Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p
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The Dryer wouldn't start after pressing the Start Button.
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from CARROLLTON, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I found a video tutorial that explained the three things that are usually the problem when a dryer stops working. This showed how simple the task is. I used a multimeter to check the switch, to make certain that this was the part that needed replacement. This was part of the tutorial, as well. I ordered from PartSelect because it was rec
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ommended to me by an application that I use to find places where items are less expensive. The correct part arrived in a few days and it worked fine. I'm not a handyman by any means, but the tutorial showed exactly what needed to be done. It appeared simple and it was.
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Loud rumble noise while drum was turning
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Marcia from CAmden, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the
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drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.
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plastic female latch part had broken...door would not stay shut
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
JOHN from HENDERSONVILLE, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
It was so easy... Pop out the old with flatblade screw driver and insert new piece... Works perfectly and looks better than the velcro strip I was using to hold the door shut...! Thanks for fast delivery and having the part available...
Regards,
JBL
Regards,
JBL
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lint filter an cover was stolen by tenant
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from WEST WARWICK, RI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
easy three prong push-in,...
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The dryer door latch broke
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Theresa from Topeka, KS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.
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My Kenmore dryer door catch was worn out, so the dryer door wouldn't stay closed, and I was unable to dry my laundry.
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Carol from Golden Valley, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin
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that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.
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Dryer made a terrible squealing noise
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Will from Charlotte, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.
Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against ... Read more the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against ... Read more the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
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Dryer stopped heating
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Joseph from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple t
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o get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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