110897 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum
23 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from Townsend, GA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to gl
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ue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!
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Temperature setting not working
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Buffalo, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
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Broken push to stat switch
18 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Fairfax, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed back cover, removed broken switch, replaced with new switch, replaced back cover, told wife her dryer was fixed.
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dryer not working
22 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maura from Newtown, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
After unplugging and removing the back cover from the dryer, locate the push button switch. Slide putty knife around outer cover to unhook catch. Replace with new push button switch. My dryer is still not working, but this was a simple replacement.
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Dryer kept spinning when the door opened
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Ocean Springs, MS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Came to Parts Select. Looked for door switch. Read what other people did. Part came in a few days took a few minutes to take old switch out (had to pry the plastic connection apart with little thin screwdriver). Everything was easy
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Door catch on dryer door broke
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lynne from Jamestown, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might c
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ontact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.
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drum stopped turning
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Gerber, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt.
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Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.
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dryer door would not latch
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Livermore, ME
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end
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drum very loud when rotating
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and repl
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aced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.
Thanks Mike
It was a very simple repair.
Thanks Mike
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Door latch (female part) was broken.
11 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.
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lint coming out duct outside
14 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from hamlet, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
one of ears that holds filter was broken leaving a small gap so lint went into duct work so i replaced the cover and filter is now held in place letting the filter do its job trapping the lint
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 228 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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One of the drum support rollers was worn out
13 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Fleetwood, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
Other Parts Used:
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Top of washer wasn't attached to base
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janel from Las Vegas, NV
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, let me start off by saying - this part wouldn't normally break. Because it's a stackable, and my dryer motor went out, the repair company had to move the entire unit from the cubicle. When the repairman tried moving it by using the washer lid ... lets just say he broke the clip. And then we could never get them to come fix the
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part they broke!
So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.
Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.
Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.
Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.
Easy, right?
So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.
Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.
Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.
Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.
Easy, right?
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Rust marks on clothing
13 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from Manor, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.
Any ... Read more one with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.
Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.
Any ... Read more one with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.
Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.
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