1108875279A Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

First I removed the fabric softener container and set it aside. Below that, there is a plastic cover with a rubber gasket that distributes the fabric softener. I also just pulled that out and set it aside. Below that was an 11mm bolt that attached the upper and lower agitator to the drive mechanisim. The lower agitator is attached directly to the shaft and that was working properly so I knew it was't a motor or drive issue. Until it broke, the top half of the agitator sat still for a second, then it turned clockwise with the lower agitator. This helped push the clothes down to the lower part to be circulated throughout the wash cycle. Well, now the upper agitator just sat there, like it wasn't attached to anything at all. Below the aforementioned plastic cover with the rubber gasket, I found a part that had 4 plastic "teeth" that moved in and out, releasing and grabbing the inside of the upper agitator, respectively. Over time, these teeth wore down and stopped "grabbing" the ridges on the inner part of the upper agitator, causing it to stop turning with the lower agitator. I removed the 11mm bolt and tried to seperate the upper agitator from the lower agitator to replace the teeth. This part was kind of tough to get out because the plastic clips that held it in were deformed. I just had to pull hard and eventually it came apart. In the process, I broke two of the clips. I wasn't really concerned because the 11mm bolt holds everything in place anyway. After that I just swapped out the worn teeth with the new ones. I put it back together in the opposide order I took it apart and viola....good as new. And it only cost me $15 bucks.

replace lint filter with new part. Great service and quick delivery! Thanks!

The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not work properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.

First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it to the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil

I replaced the Lid Switch and the unit works fine. I also cleaned up some other issues in the unit which took about half the time.

It was so easy, that my wife did it the day we got the part before I got home from work. She wedged it out with a flat head screw driver and then pushed the new door catch assembly in with her thumb. Pretty simple, thanks for having parts like this available to the public!

1. Remove the fabric softener receptacle

2. Remove the plastic dome shaped separator with a rubber o-ring around it (directly beneath fabris softener receptacle)

3. There is an 11mm bolt right in the center. Use socket wrench to remove bolt.

4. Remove agitator from washign machine.

5. Separate top half of agitator from bottom half (this was the most difficult part for me; unlike others who have described this repair, mine would not simply pull apart; I spent quite a while trying to pry up the white plastic clips extending from the bottom piece through the clear plastic piece that covers the "dog teeth" that make the top piece agitate)

6. Once apart, replace worn "dog teeth" with new dog teeth.

7. Put back together in reverse order.

went by the instution in the box with the part went very well thanks

I was hopeful it was the belt. But, I had no idea how to get to it. I used the model no. and looked on line for pats and schematics. That gave me a sense of what to do. I started at the rear and removed the back panel. It was like peeling an onion because then, I wasn't sure what to remove next. So I just kept removing nut head screws until eventually I had loosened the sides, removed the top and discovered the front lifted up and off (no screwed attachment.) There's grounding wire that must be detached. Don't forget to re-attach. Without proper grounding you could be electocuted! I was careful to remember how it was attached. To get to the pulley, which is on the front, I had to remove the drum. I found the snapped belt. The pulley is held in place by tension from the belt so, once the belt goes the pulley detaches. I tried to find the belt locally the following week but was unsuccessful. I found the part on-line and had it in four days. It was tricky getting the belt and pulley in place. I persevered.
The parts ( I replaced the fliter that needed replacement for years too) came with installation instructions. Its possible I did not have to disassemble as much as I did. Oh well! Although I'm fairly mechanical, I'm still pretty proud to have been able to do it and save the cost of a repairman.

This dryer is a stackable washer/dryer. I removed all the buttons on the front panel along with the panel. I then was able to lift the front of the door and reach in to the door switch and plug. I unscrewed the old part, installed the new one. I then put the front panel and face plate back into position and screwed them back to the dryer casing. Lastly I put the knobs back on. I was extremely impressed at how easy it was to order and how quick the part came to my house. I am very satisfied with the service and the price and will use this site again in the future.

First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to glue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.

my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end