110885 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110885
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dryer door would not latch
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Livermore, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end
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drum very loud when rotating
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I raised the top of the dryer(after unplugging the power cord) disconnected two wires to the front door switch and then removed two screws using a nutdriver. The front cover lifts up and while supporting the drum set the cover aside. Slide the belt off the drum and remove it. I then removed the two support roller tri rings and repl aced the rollers and tri rings and reassymbled the dryer.
It was a very simple repair.

Thanks Mike
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lint coming out duct outside
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from hamlet, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
one of ears that holds filter was broken leaving a small gap so lint went into duct work so i replaced the cover and filter is now held in place letting the filter do its job trapping the lint
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Door latch (female part) was broken.
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JEANMARIE from BELLEROSE, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.
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The Dryer stopped working completely.
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elyse from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.
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dryer would stall and the motor would hum before tripping circuit breaker
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Placentia, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
When the problem first came up, I took the dryer apart without first looking up any instructions. This wasn't difficult, but didn't realize when removing the fan from the motor, there is a square lug as part of the fan hidden by the rear clamp securing the motor. I was able to remove the fan by holding the motor shaft with a crescent wr ench and removing the fan by hand, but was difficult and gloves were necessary in case the fan loosened quickly and my hand came in contact with the sheet metal (very sharp).

I took the motor out and attempted to clean it as it was loaded with dust as was the dryer internals. I tried to lube the motor bearings and appeared to free up, but the sight of metal shavings on the rear bearing seal had me concerned. This ultimely did not work and was trying to buy some time until the new motor arrived.

This is when I looked up the motor part number and found that Parts Select had the part number in stock. I ordered the motor on a Saturday afternoon and got a quick response acknowledging my order. The motor shipped that following Monday from Fresno and arrived on my Southern California doorstep Tuesday. These guys have their act together and are helpful in making the repairs. In my case I did not have to make any adjustments to the wiring or the pulley for my model and replaced the motor the following weekend in about 45 minutes. Since I had the unit apart several times before replacing the motor, the installation went quickly.

The dryer is again working fine for a unit 12 years old and my wife is once again happy that we didn't have to purchase a new dryer.
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One of the drum support rollers was worn out
13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Fleetwood, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
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Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid
12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from West Chester, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.
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Top of washer wasn't attached to base
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janel from Las Vegas, NV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, let me start off by saying - this part wouldn't normally break. Because it's a stackable, and my dryer motor went out, the repair company had to move the entire unit from the cubicle. When the repairman tried moving it by using the washer lid ... lets just say he broke the clip. And then we could never get them to come fix the part they broke!

So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.

Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.

Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.

Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.

Easy, right?
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Not heating
12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from Cedareadge, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
installed according to directions, went well. However I recommend getting a newer dryer, it is 15 years old and didn't work all that well, even when fixed.
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Dryer does not turn off. Will stay in the Cool Down cycle
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from WINCHESTER, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My dryer timer would run through the heat cycle and move in to the cool down cycle. It would not move past the cool down cycle, and would not shut off automatically. I tried replacing the Thermal Fuse first, since I'd already removed the back panel to diagnose the problem. There was no change - the dryer did not shut off automatically. Ne xt, I removed the back cover to the timer console. The Timer Power Resistor looks like a black circle and a rectangle joined together. It was attached to the back of the on/off switch by a single hex head screw, and the resistor has orange and black wires attached. The replacement Power Resistor doesn't look like the resistor that was in my dryer. It is rectangular in shape with 2 male spade connectors. I attached the orange and the black wires to the new power resistor. I started the dryer and it went through a full heat/cool down cycle, and automatically shut off with the end of cycle buzzer sounding. Total part replacement time was about 10 minutes.
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my teenage son was messing around and got into the dryer and broke the door catch and bent the door.
13 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dawn from Chesapeake City, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!
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Rust marks on clothing
13 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from Manor, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.

Any one with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.

Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.
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Belt broke & renter tried to fix without my knowledge
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ALLAN W from CYRUS, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
When the belt broke my renter tried to fix it with duct tape and in the process the idler pulley either broke or somehow got lost. When I began to fix the dryer with a new belt,I discovered the idler was gone. SO, not knowing what it looked like was a problem. Going to the PartSelect web site I was able to see the exploded views of the whole dryer and pick out the right repair items. Really worked slick. Thanks. Allan W. Rutter
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Old motor was making noise and tripping after a few minutes
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Midland, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I disassembled the dryer once to clean the motor and compartment. After reasembly, the problem persistes. I ordered the motor and the second diasasssembly was accomplished in 10 minutes and the entire job took 45 minutes and the dryer was running like new. Tip- Leave the motor secured while removing the blower fan.
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All Instructions for the 110885
31 - 45 of 668