11065212610 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

My dryer was running way too hot and the temperature settings didn't make any difference. Clothes were shrinking and coming out almost scalding hot. I followed simple directions posted on you tube for troubleshooting this problem. I checked that there were no lint blockages, visually inspected all connections and hardware. All seemed good. Metered out all thermostats and fuses. Everything checked good for continuity. For the reset-able thermostats, I heated them on a hot plate to verify that the normally closed switches opened near their specified temperatures. Dont do this for the non-resetable fuses and thermostats. If you're
not sure, avoid this step. Only the hi-limit thermostat seemed to open a little higher than expected but I couldn't with 100% accuracy determine the exact temp it opened. Made sure the heating element wasn't shorted in its housing or that too might give the dryer the same symptoms. That checked good too. Only thing left I could think of was to change that hi-limit thermostat. Ordered part, removed and replaced. Perfect fit. Op-checked good. All heat settings now operate normally. No more shrunken clothes that are too hot to touch even on the lowest setting lol. Hope this helps, happy hunting.

Good

Exact part needed, fit exactly like original.

First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.

I did my repair alone by myself after viewing a short video online at partselect.com The man in the video showed every step slowly and professionally. I took some extra time to clean the dust off behind the back of Dryer while I had it open for fixing.....thanks for your help and it saved me over $190 plus which I was quoted by technician for estimate and parts. I paid $43.00 for my parts...both High limit and Cycling thermostats were replaced. My wife told me good job honey ! You can do it too.

removed back of dryer. Pull electical connections, removed heating element. Inserted replacement element, attached electrical connections and attached dryer back. Done -easily done.

The replacement parts are truly easy to exchange. Everything is located behind the rear panel. A few fasteners needed to be undone. What's really important is another video that explained what should be "checked" when a dryer malfunctions. VERY IMPORTANT viewing. I spent an afternoon going over the front inside and rear of my dryer. I'll probably get another ten years from my dryer thanks to this site data and videos.

IT WAS EASY, TOOK OUT THE OLD ONE AND PUT IN THE NEW ONE!! ANY ONE COULD DO IT.

To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.

Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.

My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.

The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Went on-line Chat and described my problem to a very professional and patient representative who requested the necessary information needed to replace my filter. Note: Due to the age of the my dryer, Sears no longer had a replacement. I'm thankful that this site was able to accomodate my need.
The repair, or should I say replacement, was as simple as pulling out the old filter and replacing it with new. Only tools, my two hands.

Just slipped it in place

Used your video, went very easy

Dryer ran with no heat. Replaced the Thermal Fuse and when that didn't fix the problem discovered the element was burned. Easy fix except the F-disconnect fitting broke when I tried to remove it and male fitting on the heating element is 0.375 and all I could find were 0.250 F-disconnect fittings. I finally found a supplier who had a 0.375 fitting and the repair took 10 minutes after that. The online videos at PartSelect are excellent.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.