11044 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11044
121 - 135 of 250

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Tub would get out of balance on the spin cycle
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kirk from P C BEACH, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.
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Washer had a 'thunk' sound during washing. I removed the back and saw the broken shock.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Bothell, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a li ght load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.
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Replace tub to pimp hose.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from LORAIN, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.
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Washer hoses due for replacement
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from PINE MOUNTAIN, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.
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Bellow pierced
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.
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Water leaking past shut off valve (solenoid operated)
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anwar from Pleasanton, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.
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Water flooding from under the washer
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from WEST BABYLON, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remive 3 screws along bottom front panel and remove that by pulling down and off. Remove 4 screws from the back of washer along the top to remove top cover. Pull out dispenser tray. Remove 2 screws from along dispenser, then carefully remove the control panel by inserting a screwdriver to release internal clips along the top. Put the cont rol panel on top of the washer. This gives you access to 2 more screws at the top, and also 2 screws on the bottom, that will release the door panel. You'll have to disconnect 3 wire connections to get access to the wide rubber gasket (bellow). There is an inner ring and an outer ring holding it in place. The outer ring is a spring. Pull that off. Then remove the inner by loosening the screw holding the clamp. Pull the bellow off and replace with the new one. Make sure the gasket goes completely over the large water spout and the smaller button sprayer at the top taking caution to have the gasket sit between the two plastic washers attached to it. Make sure the belllow is firmly seated inside and out before attaching the bellow. Reattach everything in reverse order. Problems you'll run into: getting the spring on the outer gasket as it is tight to get on and the rubber will keep slipping off the edge where it is seated. Also, you may need an extra pair of hands to hold the door up while you attach those wire connections as there is no play in the wires.
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tub filling with water when not in use
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.
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Tear in door seal
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sean from Palm Coast, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clam p. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.
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front door leaking
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jim from winchester, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.
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All 3 baffles had broken
4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Christiansburg, VA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Repair was described as a simple 5 minute job following the enclosed directions. There were no directions included. Customer service replied they could not provide any instructions. I located a technical manual online and determined the steps necessary to replace the baffles. While some may just click them in, a proper repair requires the control pannel and machine housing to be removed. Then the tub assembly must be removed and the plastic tub separated from the basket. Three screws (one for each baffle must be installed. (I recommend using blue loctite to keep the screws from backing out). The entire process must then be reversed. This is a slightly complicated (note the pencil is to mark the locations of clips for ease of reinstallation. I am an Engineer and this process took over 2 hours and required a significant amount of space to lay out the parts as the machine was totally disassembled. This assembly is best accomplished with 2 people and an entire afternoon without interruption. It can be done by anyone with some mechanical skills, but find the consumer services technical manual first and be prepared to keep track of a lot of small and large parts. This is not the simple 5 minute job described by others (unless you just want to snap the baffles on the basket and not lock them down). In that case go ahead and order a few more sets as the clips will break and the baffles will slide off and you will be replacing them about every 6 months.
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original door hook broke in two pieces.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • carlos from TAMPA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
As easy as 123 two torx screws removed old pieces and install the new one and like that ready for another 15 years.
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Needed an adapter to run the appliance
5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Yardville, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.
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hose split
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sam from Sharon, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Pulled washer out from wall removed clamp and old drain hose addnew hose replaced clamp put washer back in plact connected drain to outlet simple operation
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Baffle broke.
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erin from Coldwater, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The baffle just slipped on with no tools required. The best thing was that we received our parts the next day after ordering them, and we just paid for regular shipping!
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All Instructions for the 11044
121 - 135 of 250