11044 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11044
106 - 120 of 250

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Baffle broke off
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Ellison Bay, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patienc e. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.
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Washing machine wouldn't run. Kept making buzzing sound and didn't show door latched.
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Keith from Amherst, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into plac e and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.
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the pump wasnt puping out the water
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Evette from Mayfield, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.
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Missing 2 Baffles
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • leigh from Chapel Hill, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Easy to install.
Baffles came with 3 screws and no directions.
The screws unnecessary and we easily figured out how to install.
Quick delivery, 1-2 days.
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Portable Dishwasher was leaking around connection to faucet.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from CASTLETON, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased and installed new faucet attachment. It arrived quickly and very easy to attach. Thank you !
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The washing machine was not draining. It was showing a code on the washer of 02.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from Gary, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
We removed the front cover to the washer. Then we removed the drain pump piece that was broken. We put the new drain pump in and secured the screws. We also inspected all the hoses to make sure the hose clamps were intact. Then leaving the front cover off the machine to inspect for leaks we turned on the wash cycle. No more problems.
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Old drainage hose had a break in it.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Virginia from SNELLVILLE, GA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Removed broken hose and replaced with new hose. My washer will be 21 years old in January.
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Water constantly leaking into the washer
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from LAS VEGAS, NV
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the ins ide. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.
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Old outgoing water hose leaking
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from BIRMINGHAM, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
1. Need mop, bucket to catch leftover water in machine before you remove old hose. 2. Removed old hose by removing clamp. 3. Dried up any remaining water around fixture before attaching new hose. 4. Slide clamp to bottom of hose before attaching to machine. 5. Attached hose and clamp to machine where old hose was removed from. Make sure c lamp is secure. (Please note that clamp that came with the new hose was too big. I used the old one. Worked perfectly). 6. Finally run a little water in you washer, then run out to test tightness and there is no leaks.
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wont pump the water out
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Corning, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together
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Washer wouldn't drain
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Barrington, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.
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Bellow pierced
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.
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Failing inlet valve allowed water accumulation when off
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and repl ace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.
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Error codes SUD and Fo2
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from LEXINGTON, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump w ith the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good
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Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from VIRGINIA BCH, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
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All Instructions for the 11044
106 - 120 of 250