11043 - Instructions

I bought a new door lock for 132 dollars (item number PS2037196).

Ultimately you have to get to the inside of the machine where the door lock is located in order to see if you will need this door lock that I bought.

DISCONNECT POWER FROM MACHINE.

First take off the top by taking off the 2 screws on the bac ... Read more k of the machine.

Second take off the control panel, I believe there are about 5 or 6 screws for that.
(there's also a screw when you open up the detergent compartment on the bottom left- also, a lever must be pushed in order for the compartment to come off- it MUST be taken off).

Third unscrew the top of the front white plate.. there should be a 5 or 6 screws for that.
You don't need to take off the entire front plate.

Finally unscrew 3 screws that hold the door lock in place .. make sure your hands is in the machine- the back of door lock to catch the lock when you're on the last screw.

Gently take out the door lock from the side with the cables attached by holding the white metal door open (it bends).

Try to pull on the bottom of the door lock (its a manual release). If it doesn't release you need to buy a new door lock like I did... if it does release then you don't need a door lock and just reassemble.
(Note: You can also try plugging in the machine and THEN pulling down on the manual release. When I tried this the door lock just vibrated and nothing happened so I bought a new door lock.)

If you have the new door lock continue here:

Take out all 3 cables on the old door lock by pressing on the corresponding clips.

Attach the new door lock with the correct cables. Assemble machine back together.

Thats it.

First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yr ... Read more s old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned ... Read more . That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

1. Removed the 4 screws across the top of the back of the washer which hold on the washer top.
2. slightly lift the backside of the washer top and pull/ slide to the back to remove. Top will unlatch and and lift off.
3.Remove the star screw that attaches the water valve to the back of the washer.
4. Remove hose clamp and 4 ... Read more wire clips from water vale assembly and replaced with new valve.
5. Reverse order to reassemble.

I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves ... Read more you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it ... Read more was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

While looking at the new baffle it became evedent that I would need to remove the top of the unit to secure the new baffle to the drum. This was easly done by removing the top of the unit. I removed the three screws from the top back of the unit. Once the top was off I located the inlet tube for the detergent to the drum. I was able to sp ... Read more in the drum and locate the underside of the baffle by looking through the hole where the tube had been attached . I then installed the baffle and snapped it in place. I turned the drum to locate the hole again and installed the screw that was supplied with the new baffle. I then returned the tube back to the location it had orginally been installed. I returned the top and reinstalled the screws to the back of the unit. Whrilpool wanted to replace the entire drum at a cost of $480.00 for the part alone. This is much more cost effective with just a small bit of work. I have contacted Whrilpool for the part number and they would only tell me that I needed a whole drum. I was contacted by a rep from Whrilpool and she told me that I was wrong I could not have done this without replacing the whole drum. My wife will tell all who ask that this unit is working wonderfully.

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read ... Read more about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machi ... Read more ne requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ... Read more ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw point ... Read more ed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.

Turn off both hot an cold water supply valves. Unscrew both hot and cold supply hoses from rear of washer making note of which inlet they came off of. Pull washer out to access screws to remove top cover and water inlet valve. Remove top cover unscrewing 3 torx screws on the rear of the washer. Unplug the 4 wires wires from water inlet va ... Read more lve - make sure you remember which pairs go to which solenoid. Remove 1 phillips head screw that secures the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Remove water inlet valve. With a pair of pliers loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet valve. Take the new water inlet valve and loosen hose clamp with pliers and push the hose onto the barbed fitting as far as it will go. Make sure hose clamp is over barbed fitting securing the hose. Attach both pairs of wires to the solenoids in the same position that you removed them. Position water inlet valve into place and secure with phillips screw. The part that I received did not quite line up with the hole on the rear of my washer so I had to elongate the existing hole on the rear of the washer with a drill so I could secure the water inlet valve as designed. Screw on both water supply lines making sure the hot and cold are screwed back on to the right inlets. Turn both water supply valves on and test looking for leaks. Secure the top cover back on with the 3 torx screws and push washer back into place. Viola! Ready for the next load of wash.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the be ... Read more llows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wir ... Read more es connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.