11031 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
71 of 108 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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Tab on door strike got broken off and washer would not operate without it.
45 of 56 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from AURORA, CO
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pushed in on door strike and rotated it counterclockwise, removed broken strike and installed new strike. NOTE: when removing the old strike (turning counterclockwise) it felt like it might break and/or was attached with an screw that I didn't see but it came right out.
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Broken lid catch/strike
22 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Cheney, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Rotate the broken piece counter clockwise in the socket in the lid to release it. Install the new one in a clockwise rotation.
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Making loud noises.
21 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you
Thank you
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Faulty fill valve
18 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marian from GREYBULL, WY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to rele ... Read more ase spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to rele ... Read more ase spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.
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Snapped off door strike
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Miranda from WEST FARGO, ND
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Super easy repair, simply turn the broken door strike counterclockwise to remove; insert the new door strike into the slots and turn clockwise to lock into place.
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The lid was closed to hard causing the door strike, lid lock bezel and assembly to break.
18 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from MOUNT CALM, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Changing the door strike was simple just a quarter turn and it pops off. Changing the assembly, remove the screws from the back side at the top, move to facing the front of the machine pull the top toward you about a half inch and it will open. From the back unplug the correct wire, remove assembly and then install in reverse. Good luck.
Other Parts Used:
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Screeching noise when starting the washing cycle. Especially with heavy loads.
15 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Armando from UNION CITY, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.
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Water Inlet Valve inoperative
17 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from FAIRBORN, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips
... Read more
. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.
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Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an
... Read more
accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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Violent shaking of tub when spin
12 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Susan from Clayton, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
replaces all 4 suspension rods.
1. unplug machine.
Take a zip tie and attach the end to form a loop. Keep the loop as large as possible.
2. Remove 4 self tapping screws in back of machine top two are into the tabs, 1 in the washer top and 1 in the electrical cover.
3. Use plastic pry bar to elevate tabs under t ... Read more op on right and left sides. use the heel of your hand to tap the back of the top forward. Once it moves you will need to use the pry bar to help pop it up out of the tab. When both sides are loose and the top is free. It will tilt back. There are slots on the top that the tabs on the washer slide into to hold the top up. CAUTION: the lid is hinged and loose so either have it supported when it’s back or use tape to secure it shut.
4. At the 4 corners you will see where the suspension rods attach into the plastic cups. Use a screwdriver to pry up the hook until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Lift the hook until it clears the plastic puck, remove the puck then let the hook fall into the hole.
5. If possible set a flashlight so you can see down to the bottom attach point of the suspension rods attach. Grab the rod about half way down the shaft, the push down. The assembly will break loose and drop to the bottom, then you can slide the rod out and remove it. NOTE: THE SPRING IS STRONG. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ROD, THE TUB WILL NOT BE SUPPORTED AT THAT POINT, SO YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TUB TO CONTEND WITH WHEN YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROD.
6. Make sure the new rod assembly has the black retainer positioned on top of the spring and the white retainer is about 6” above.
7. Hold the new rod so you can put the bottom with the spring back into the plastic cup. Once it’s in, give the rod a tug to seat the spring in the holder. keep holding the rod. Grab the zip tie loop you made earlier. Place it on the top hook of the hook then hold the rod by the zip tie. Feed the tie through the top hole, insert the screwdriver through the zip tie and set over the hole to hold the rod in position. Get the holder cup assembly (outer ring and inner bracket).
8. Hold the zip tie, let it back through the hole, while holding it, position the outer cup, then pull the zip tie back through the hole, insert the center bracket watching the position so the stem clears the rod, then lift the zip tie and position the hook over the bracket. At this point you can either cut the zip tie and pull it out or pry up the hook on the rod until you can slip off the zip tie.
9. Let the rod seat into the cup bracket. I orient the hook so it faces outside. The first rod is in.
10. Repeat doing 1 rod at a time. Be prepared to bruise your arm reaching down into the washer as it’s close quarters. The spring is strong and the tub is heavy so you need some arm strength to do this with one arm. It isn’t difficult and you’ll do better on each successive rod.
11. When all the rods are in and set, ease the top back down, align the tabs, check the side tabs that they didn’t bend (if they did just bent them back in), make sure the top is out of the tabs, then shove the front to reset the top.
12. Reattach the 4 sheet metal screws to the top, plug it it and test.
1. unplug machine.
Take a zip tie and attach the end to form a loop. Keep the loop as large as possible.
2. Remove 4 self tapping screws in back of machine top two are into the tabs, 1 in the washer top and 1 in the electrical cover.
3. Use plastic pry bar to elevate tabs under t ... Read more op on right and left sides. use the heel of your hand to tap the back of the top forward. Once it moves you will need to use the pry bar to help pop it up out of the tab. When both sides are loose and the top is free. It will tilt back. There are slots on the top that the tabs on the washer slide into to hold the top up. CAUTION: the lid is hinged and loose so either have it supported when it’s back or use tape to secure it shut.
4. At the 4 corners you will see where the suspension rods attach into the plastic cups. Use a screwdriver to pry up the hook until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Lift the hook until it clears the plastic puck, remove the puck then let the hook fall into the hole.
5. If possible set a flashlight so you can see down to the bottom attach point of the suspension rods attach. Grab the rod about half way down the shaft, the push down. The assembly will break loose and drop to the bottom, then you can slide the rod out and remove it. NOTE: THE SPRING IS STRONG. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ROD, THE TUB WILL NOT BE SUPPORTED AT THAT POINT, SO YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TUB TO CONTEND WITH WHEN YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROD.
6. Make sure the new rod assembly has the black retainer positioned on top of the spring and the white retainer is about 6” above.
7. Hold the new rod so you can put the bottom with the spring back into the plastic cup. Once it’s in, give the rod a tug to seat the spring in the holder. keep holding the rod. Grab the zip tie loop you made earlier. Place it on the top hook of the hook then hold the rod by the zip tie. Feed the tie through the top hole, insert the screwdriver through the zip tie and set over the hole to hold the rod in position. Get the holder cup assembly (outer ring and inner bracket).
8. Hold the zip tie, let it back through the hole, while holding it, position the outer cup, then pull the zip tie back through the hole, insert the center bracket watching the position so the stem clears the rod, then lift the zip tie and position the hook over the bracket. At this point you can either cut the zip tie and pull it out or pry up the hook on the rod until you can slip off the zip tie.
9. Let the rod seat into the cup bracket. I orient the hook so it faces outside. The first rod is in.
10. Repeat doing 1 rod at a time. Be prepared to bruise your arm reaching down into the washer as it’s close quarters. The spring is strong and the tub is heavy so you need some arm strength to do this with one arm. It isn’t difficult and you’ll do better on each successive rod.
11. When all the rods are in and set, ease the top back down, align the tabs, check the side tabs that they didn’t bend (if they did just bent them back in), make sure the top is out of the tabs, then shove the front to reset the top.
12. Reattach the 4 sheet metal screws to the top, plug it it and test.
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F7 e1 code
12 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jane from WILDORADO, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Thought we needed a new shift actuator but after getting the parts and starting the replacement noticed the capacitor had come loose and was banging around under the washer. Found there was a little wire to the shift actuator that was cut probable from the capacitor being loose. spliced the wire back together and replaced the capacitor b
... Read more
ut not the shift actuator and its been working great. was an easy fix and easy to get to. Didn't need the maytag man when we can get parts from here.
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Machine would stop at spin cycle
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from COHOES, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After disconnecting water lines and power, tip machine onto its back. The actuator is located under the drum. Remove the cover over the motor/ drive belt. Actuator is located by the transmission and held on by several screws. Unplug the wiring harness and remove three screws with Phillips screwdriver. Install new actuator..
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door striker prongs snapped off
11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from NASHUA, NH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The door strike part was very simple to remove. 15 seconds at most...Part ordered and delivered a day early. Install of new part was again about 15 seconds and Wala....job completed. Thanks for the great service....will call again when needed....
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 228 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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