110271 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed bolt holding top of agitator, removed top of agitator. Replaced parts. Reinstalled agitator. An old machine now works like a new model.

Followed the directions given in other client reviews. It was easy and works perfectly now.

Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.

Went on u tube saw different video to How disassemble the top to have access to the rod. Changing one by one those rod I was in need of my wife to hold the cover while I was changing the rod.... order for suspension rod kit. Reassemble the top by sliding the cover and to snap. Screw back the panel. And it solve the problem. My wife was r ... Read more eally happy so me. It can be done by anybody but first go on the internet to get a idea.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

3rd time replacing this part. The plastic grooves against the metal get wore down. Only 20$ to repair ! Take off the 3/8 bolt - center pops out. Remove screws pop out old piece and tighten new piece each side evenly.

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get ... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) ... Read more then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM

Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined co ... Read more rrectly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.

Changing the gear case is a basic R and R operation since the gear case is a complete assembly riveted together. It is a bit challenging though getting to it because you have to totally disassemble the entire washer nearly every nut, bolt and screw. Fortunately the washer is fairly easy to work on and I am very mechanically inclined, but ... Read more I did cheat a bit by watching some U-tube videos first. I couldn't find the same exact model washer as mine on U-tube but there were enough similar units to obtain the basic procedure. A thing I do when disassembling things is to take pictures of the way it's put together before removing stuff. It goes without saying that you first have to disconnect the power, the water hoses and it helps to get the washer out away from the wall so you can work around it. You have to remove the top, back panels, and the inner and outer tubs first. After removing the inner and outer tubs I turned the washer upside down in order to gain access to the gear case so I wouldn't have to stand on my head or lay down. Remove everything attached to the gear case (take picture) and use a strap wrench (or a strong friend) to hold the large pulley while removing the retaining nut. To remove the condenser (large round thing in black plastic retainer) rotate it counter clockwise and lift out, it doesn't snap out. I was very happy to see that the new gear case came with the shaft seal already installed so with a small amount of liquid dish soap around the outside of the rubber it allowed a nice slip fit back into the outer tub. All the parts that were removed pretty much will only fit one way so you don't have to worry too much about how everything goes back together. After reassembly and hooking up the washer again be sure to perform the calibration procedure before you turn on the water. Instructions came in the box with the gear case. Here is a side bar: I am 76, my grandson and I replaced the gear case in just a few hours, It's no big deal. Now for the interesting part, when I ordered the replacement gear case by the old part number I was told it had been superseded by a new number so when the new unit arrived I discovered that the shaft and seal looked different so hopefully the water leaking into bearing won't happen again. I was going to drill the old gear case apart and replace the bad bearing so I am glad I didn't because the shaft and seal would continue to leak and ruin the bearing again so don't try that. One thing I would like to mention about this company from which I ordered the part was the amazing delivery, only 36 hours. I ordered the part Sunday evening late and Tuesday morning early it arrived. Wow, blew me away, also I live in California and apparently the company is in Nova Scotia, no sales tax, Woo Hoo.

turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.

Remove small screws on back of top on both sides, slide top forward. No need to remove water hoses. Lift top up to expose switch safety mechanism (black plastic) on front underside of top. Undo screws holding switch mechanism. remove plate cover from back of top and unplug wiring harness. Thread new wireing harness and plug through hole ... Read more in top and plug in to plug receptor.

Removed back cover plate.
Replaced wiring harness starting at control unit and working down to the motor. Replaced sensor on motor.
Removed basket, checked for obstructions.
Reassembled machine, conducted diagnostic testing.

1. Unplug washer 2. Remove 3 plates off of the control box that attaches to the body of the washer 3. Using a 2 inch putty knife locate spring clips and push in to release 4. Lift top and secure 5. Lift up suspension rod and pop off the ball socket it sits in, then reach down and locate the clip of the suspension rod and push the tabs in. ... Read more It should just fall out. 6 make sure you clean the top well before reinstalling the new rod. 7. To install new suspension rod secure the top of the rod first then lift the drum and click in the bottom of the suspension rod. I recommend once you do the first rod then go to the back right corner and install that rod next. You will notice that their will be power and water lines on a clip that attaches to the rod. Disconnect from the rod and replace the rod. If you do this rod last the drum will have a lot of tension from the new springs and it will be difficult to install.