1102702 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1102702
1 - 15 of 47

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Violent shacking in spin mode.
189 of 230 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Homosassa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Watched a video on the internet.
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Noise, grinding sounds. Wash tub stopped turning but motor and cycles kept functioning. Process of elimination, must be the clutch assembly.
71 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.
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Over shaking and knocking on the side
25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alain.m from HARLINGEN, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Went on u tube saw different video to How disassemble the top to have access to the rod. Changing one by one those rod I was in need of my wife to hold the cover while I was changing the rod.... order for suspension rod kit. Reassemble the top by sliding the cover and to snap. Screw back the panel. And it solve the problem. My wife was r eally happy so me. It can be done by anybody but first go on the internet to get a idea.
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washer not agitating
22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from EAST AMHERST, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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Making loud noises.
21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you
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lid would not lock, washer would not run...
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Hale Center, Texas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed old striker ( 2 Phillips head screws ) replaced with new striker with the 2 screws and was done, easy fix...
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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wash machine walked
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elzoria from FROSTPROOF, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
watch utube instruction.easy repair
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Wouldn’t drain pump made loud noise
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • REED from BUCHANAN, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed old drain pump and found a sock in the inlet - must have burned out pump because after removing it pump was still defective. Installed new pump in about 30 minutes and off to the races no more issues
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replaced drain hose that was missing
12 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
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I followed the video guide, which was excellent
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from NAPLES, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I followed the instructions, however I did not have a spot to hold the bar temporarily, so I drilled a hole in the corner frame to hook them in at the front of the machine. All else was easy and according to the video.

Machine works great now.
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Shaking extreme
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from RICHMOND, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Per instruction sent with purchase
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Making noise when spinning tub hit side of washer.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernestine from CARRIERE, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .
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Washer would not run or start when start button was pushed.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from PATERSON, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Based on, online troubleshooting and repair guide. First repair attempt was unsuccessful after replacing suggested parts and required a professional repair tech to diagnose the issue. Second attempt at repair was successful after the proper issue was diagnosed. Sometimes you just have to call a professional. John Suchinsky, Paterson NJ
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The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover wi th Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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All Instructions for the 1102702
1 - 15 of 47