Air Inlet Cover Kit WR49X10091
Official part for General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore
Easy
30 - 60 mins
About This Part
What it does. Why it matters. Everything you need to know for an easy fix.
Air Inlet Cover Kit Specifications
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Genuine OEM: Original Parts. Lasting Repairs.
Because quality isn't optional.
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. This means that the company who made your appliance is also supplying the replacement part.
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|---|---|---|
| Genuine brand name | ||
| Guaranteed to fit | ||
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Part Videos
Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.
Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Air Inlet Cover Kit
About this fix
Common problems and models this part fixes.
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Rated by verified customers
- Fridge too cold
- Fridge too warm
- Refrigerator
Customer Reviews
Real ratings from other people who bought this part.
Average Rating:
Out of 5
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5 Stars 2
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4 Stars 0
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3 Stars 0
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2 Stars 0
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1 Star 0
Search reviews left by others. DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone. Use simple keywords like "fit", "broken", "easy", or "quality" to find reviews that match!
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Repair Tips
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Average repair rating from 15 real customers like you
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Marc from Orlando, FL
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A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Screw drivers
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the ... Read more fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
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Bradley from Spokane, WA
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Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
Step one: clear off the top two shelves and take them out.
Step two: remove the lower piece of the assembl ... Read more y. It pops straight out at the top and drops down after that. If you pull the bottom straight out, you may break the bits that holds it to the fridge wall.
Step three: remove screws holding in light, and then the screws holding in the AASM COVER FF INLET K (wish I had a better name for it).
Step Four: Unplug the unit from the fridge wall.
Installation, reverse, except maybe unplug the unit earlier.
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justin from brownsville, OH
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Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
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Herbert from Sunriver, OR
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Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.
Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.
Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.
Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.
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Robert from Hurst, TX
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Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
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Frederick K from Kingston, TN
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Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
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Jeff from Manteca, CA
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Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
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Lawrence from Crestwood, KY
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A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
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KENSIL J from JACKSONVILLE, NC
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Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
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John from Sharpsburg, GA
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Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
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DIY Questions and Expert Answers
15 questions answered by our Repair Experts.
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