39631UGXAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: MWFP
$94.45
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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
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Part #MWFP
This ice and water filter helps reduce impurities in select side by side and bottom freezer refrigerators. Replace it about every six months, or when water flow slows, ice production drops, or the filter light turns red. Some older filter setups may need an adapter. Place a cloth under the filter before removal. Check the exact refrigerator model before ordering.
Module Shelf Insert - Clear – Part Number: WR71X10761
$64.23
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Module Shelf Insert - Clear
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Part #WR71X10761
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs. This part is used to hold items in the fridge, and if broken it should be replaced. Refer to your user manual and model number to ensure this part is right for you.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$23.79
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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
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Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
Main Control Board Assembly – Part Number: WR55X10942C
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Main Control Board Assembly
Part #WR55X10942C
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerator, and measures 8 inches by 5 inches. It’s constructed of metal and plastic, and comes in green. This kit includes one main control board with built in defrost controls. If broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced.
WATER VALVE WITH GUARD – Part Number: WR57X33326
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WATER VALVE WITH GUARD
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Part #WR57X33326
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
$16.74
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Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
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Part #WR02X12008
This evaporator fan grommet is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter.
Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin – Part Number: WR71X10973
$134.81
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Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin
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Part #WR71X10973
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators. Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual for installing this part.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$267.74
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Ice Maker
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Part #WR30X10093
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold into the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. This kit includes the fill cup, 4-pin wire harness adapter, and a tube. Disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
DISPENSER LIGHT – Part Number: WR01X37886
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DISPENSER LIGHT
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Part #WR01X37886
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly – Part Number: WR62X10055
$88.24
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Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
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Part #WR62X10055
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is sold individually. Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X31507
$21.80
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REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
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Part #WR23X31507
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey – Part Number: WR02X11331
$13.95
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Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
Part #WR02X11331
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unusually noisy, it could be because the grommet is damaged. This grommet is made of grey plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. To access the fan grommet and complete this repair, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly. This part is sold individually.

Common Symptoms of the 39631UGXAWW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
1038 of 1163 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ralph from bristow, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
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The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
561 of 652 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Holly Springs, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at [email protected]. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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