Product Description
Hub Nut Specifications
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
How Buying OEM Parts Can Save You Time and Money
Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Washer Hub Nut
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH2X1193 replaces these:
AP2045284, 279131
Customer Reviews
Filter By Rating:
- < Prev
- 1
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
Joshua S - November 14, 2021
Verified Purchase
Right part and easy to install
I’ve had great service when ordering parts with this company, parts are what you see and they arrive when or before they say!!
- < Prev
- 1
- Next >
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 40 reviews.
What's this?
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours.
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours.
Other Parts Used:
-
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
210 of 248 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The Hub Under the Spinner basket broken/ Deteriorated
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
Other Parts Used:
-
Joe from Lucedale, MS
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
113 of 134 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Main seal leaking & burned bearings on & in transmission
Outrageous bad design for GE. We bought a SS tub washer but during repair found hidden aluminum components as 'wet' support structures, with massive corrosion; GE's SS tub is a fraud. Main seal went bad after 2 years, washer has a drip pan - no wonder, the problem was hiden for another year while parts burned up. Replacing transmission is basically simple if you have a large hammer and pipe wrench to remove the left hand turn aluminum main holding nut. Replacement parts were okay but we are going to sell washer & dryer immediately because of bad design - it will be a good machine for someone else for a couple years.
Other Parts Used:
-
Gregory from Mountain Home, ID
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
72 of 101 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
tub would not spin / motor was smoking
the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.
Other Parts Used:
-
Michael from West Babylon, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
56 of 88 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.
Other Parts Used:
-
Dave from Willcox, AZ
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
32 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Bearing above brake plate on transmission unit failed, brske material broken up
First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.
Other Parts Used:
-
Michael from Allentown, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
32 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Grind noise becoming worse
Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.
Other Parts Used:
-
Eric from Oak Harbor, WA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
27 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Hub under agitator disentegrated
I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).
After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscrew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.
Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!
After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscrew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.
Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!
Other Parts Used:
-
MARK from RAMSEY, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
27 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer was leaking where the tranmission entered the tub
Based on other research, the location of the leak indicated that the main tub seal needed to be replaced. I took the washer apart before ordering new parts in case I broke other parts in the process and to be sure I could. I ended up having to cut off the Agitator Coupling and really marred up the hub nut. Those were the hardest 2 pieces to remove since they had corroded badly after many years of use. I had to use a pipe wrench and a hammer to remove the hub nut and a hack saw to get the agitator coupling off (air bell).
$68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.
$68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.
Other Parts Used:
-
Kevin from Dillon, CO
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
24 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
hub corroded away and left spin basket sitting on bottom of tub.
Biggest problem was getting old hub nut off. I had to remove it in pieces because it was corroded so bad.
Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft.
Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran.
I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time...
THANKS!.. It sure helped.
Would I do business here again.. YEP!
I will recommend you to others.
Thanks.
Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft.
Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran.
I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time...
THANKS!.. It sure helped.
Would I do business here again.. YEP!
I will recommend you to others.
Thanks.
Other Parts Used:
-
Leda from Port Saint Lucie, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
17 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
Questions and Answers
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
James
October 19, 2017
How can I get the tool to remove the hub nut.
For model number WJSR4160G5WW
Hi James, Thank you for the question. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . Hope this helps!
10 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Sergio
April 29, 2018
Hello, i have an issue with this washing machine. After some loads, the shaft nut comes loose. I tightened it, and it comes loose after a few loads.
For model number ghwn4250d1ww
Hello Sergio, Thank you for your inquiry. The nut may have become stripped or damaged, in that case it should be replaced. Hope this helps!
5 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Javier
November 8, 2018
Confirm the part number for the hub nut wrench applicable for my GE washer model? I understand that is the same one for all GE washers, right? Thx in advance x your support!
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Javier,
Thank you for the question. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
3 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Jacob
February 2, 2018
I have ordered a replacement hub nut and watched this video for how to replace it. My question is why is it necessary to disassemble so much of the machine if the nut can be accessed after you pop off the agitator. It seems unnecessary and he never explains why he is doing that but i do not want to bypass all of that and damage something else on my machine. Https://www.Youtube.Com/watch?Time_continue=370&v=idayja4npio
Hi Jacob,
Thank you for your question. You have to disassemble the way that he does in the video to make sure you do not break anything else. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
2 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Aurelio
April 26, 2018
Wrench for center nut removal
For model number WHRE5550K2WW and Serial: 146660G
Hi Aurelio,
Thank you for your question. I have linked that part down below for you. Good luck with your repair.
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Related Parts:
Michael
July 30, 2018
How do I get the hub nut off without the special tool?
For model number GTWN4250M0WS
Hello Michael, Thank you for the email. You will need a hub nut wrench in order to remove it sorry. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . Hope this helps!
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dan
August 2, 2018
Do you have a spanner wrench for the hub nut on this model?
For model number WJRE5500G2WW
Hi Dan,
Thank you for your question. You will need a hub nut wrench in order to remove it. The part number for the hub nut wrench is PS311934. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Thomas
March 5, 2020
What size is that nut inside drum under agitator
For model number Gtwn300miws
Hello Thomas, Thank you for the question. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. We hope this helps.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Elvin
January 31, 2023
I have changed the belt, and the switch assembly. My washer drains water but does not spin leaving clothes soaking wet. The agitator does spin but not the tub. I'm starting to think it the coupler. Do you agree?
For model number GCWP1000M0WW
Hello Elvin, Thank you for writing. This could be an indication the Agitator Coupling is worn and needs to be replaced. We suggest checking the Agitator Coupling for wear or damage. We hope this information helps!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Related Parts:
Stephane
March 29, 2023
Hi !!
Is it normal to have loose and bakclash between the drive pulley and the shaft/drive tube assembly splines ???
I asked a question about hub nut unbolt by herself to 2 days ago and i was wondering if it can have a relation with it.
For model number GTAN4250D2WW
Hi Stephane, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, a good spline joint provides very high secure torque transmission, little clearance, minimum backlash, good centering between the coupled components, low noise, low wear, and small or no axial forces. We hope this helps!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- Next >
Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS271505
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1193
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1193
Brand
Model Number
Description