56051A0WW General Electric Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
No Longer Available
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Agitator Coupling Kit – Part Number: WH49X10042
$96.22
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Agitator Coupling Kit
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Part #WH49X10042
This is a washing machine agitator coupling kit. It connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base. It includes the couple, gasket, and bolt.
D-Shaped Knob Clip – Part Number: WH01X10106
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D-Shaped Knob Clip
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Part #WH01X10106
Sold individually.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$27.58
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Tub Seal
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Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Timer Knob Clip – Part Number: WH1X2117
$13.95
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Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$13.95
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Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
Hub Nut – Part Number: WH2X1193
$29.12
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Hub Nut
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(2)
Part #WH2X1193
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is two inches in diameter.
Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X10096
$79.66
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Drain Hose
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Part #WH41X10096
This drain hose is a replacement part for your top-loading washer. The hose measures 57 inches in length.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$137.13
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Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
V-Style Drive Belt – Part Number: WH1X2026
$42.54
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Hub Washer – Part Number: WH2X1199
$17.70
Special Order
Hub Washer
Part #WH2X1199
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under the washer tub, beneath the split ring. You will need to remove the tub to access it. Before doing so you should disconnect the power and water sources from washer. The washer is made of metal and is a little more than an inch in diameter. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part.

Common Symptoms of the 56051A0WW

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Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.
304 of 334 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Midlothian, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)< br />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.

NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
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broken dampening strap and loose agitator
286 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • molly from laguna niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem ove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.
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Agitator would not move during wash cycle
232 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Lexington, KY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I placed both hands under the agitator 180 degrees apart, gave a quick jerk, and seperated the agitator from the coupling. With the agitator removed, use a socket and ratchet to remove the bolt holding the coupling to the spline. Remove the old coupling and slide the new one over the spline. Lightly tap on the coupling if necessary. I nsert the bolt with the ratchet and slide the agitator back over the coupling and you are done.
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