Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly Specifications
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Jenn-Air Refrigerator Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Freezer too cold
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Jenn-Air, Maytag.
Part# WP61006199 replaces these:
AP6010105, 61003949, 61004310, 61006125, 61006199
Customer Reviews
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Carlos B - September 5, 2023
Verified Purchase
The part I order looks that work good.
This comments is to apology to you, because, looks like I make a little mistake at moment to insert the new defrost heater. There was a small loose pipe that should be holding the part, but reviewing the video again I found that I miss place the pipe and wasn't holding the heater, that's why after a few days go freezing again, I'll wait another 5 days to confirm that is working properly, I almost sure. Thank You so much.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Kevin B - September 28, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair , great part . Worked as expected !
The part was in excellent condition and arrived on time . My fridge was up and running in a couple of hours . Thanks for fast shipping !!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Brad B - January 21, 2019
Verified Purchase
Worked great
My parts showed up quickly only couple days, the video was great for install as well. Fairly easy install and everything is back to working how it should!!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.6 / 5.0, 31 reviews.
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The food side of my Maytag wide by side refrigerator was 80 degrees.
Okay all you ladies out there, listen up. Yep, I am a girl and had never worked on a refrigerator before. I googled the model of frig and the problem. Finding that one of two things were probably wrong, I went to parts select and ordered both parts. Two days later they arrived. I replaced the coil and thermostat and waited one day -- the food side still did not cool down. I replaced the frost board and immediately the unit started to cool. I had called a repairman on Saturday and was told that they couldn't make an appointment until the following Friday because of a tremendous work load. I had the refrigerator running by Thursday, the day before anyone could even take a look at my refrigerator. Even though I spent $30 on a part I didn't need, I saved a bundle, the house call would of been more than $30.
I removed the screws on the covers and remove them, then taken the screws from the timer, the temperature control just set in there, then pulled out a lttle ways and disconnected the wires and then removed. Installed the new ones. I taken the back panel off and removed the clip and pulled the defrost heater out a ways and removed the wires and removed the defrost heater. Installed the new defrost heater and clip and the covers.
Removed all parts and replaced defrost heater/thermostat and new clip then replaces Defrost board (new ones just snap in) and replaced all parts back and seems to be back to normal. Thank you Parts Select
After removing all shelves, I removed the 2 screws holding the 2 panels in front of the evaporator and heater. The heater is located at the bottom of the evaporator coils and is held on by a simple wire clip. After removing the heater and thermostat, is very easy to replace the new unit and reconnect the wire harness.
Other Parts Used:
John from Cambria, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
27 of 28 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Fridge started warming up, then freezer portion tried to die
Removed control section and found ice build up in transfer tunnel from the freezer section to the fridge section. freezer fan was running, compressor running - no air coming into fridge section. Possible and cheapest problem - no defrost cycle taken place. Replaced defrost heater/t-stat in freezer and defrost controller in fridge. Seams to work (for now).
Constant running, ice build-up in evaporator, fridge side warm
Simple parts replacement. The temp control was a bit tricky as it involved replicating the bends of the tiny tubing for the sensor coil, but everything is so modular that it was not that difficult.
Freezer defrosted while doing the control repairs, it had a lot of ice stuck in the evaporator because the defrost function was not working.
The worst part of all this was moving the food and making sure it did not spoil.
Refrigerator not cooling, freezer thawing but cold.
I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit. The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.
Freezer was overfrosting and not defrosting. Frig. was not getting cold.
This was very easy. I removed all the shelves in the freezer compartment. I removed two nutscrews to remove the back wall. Then I removed the little radiator looking part by removing two more nutscrews. I unplugged the old thermostat assembly and installed the new one exactly like I removed it, then I reversed the procedure to put it all back together. Very easy my wife could have done it. ThANKS!! to Parts Select for the help of all the blogs I read before doing the job.
Other Parts Used:
Daniel O. from Gilroy, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
9 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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not cold enough refrig. side
These so called factory trained techs, at least the ones that looked at my fridge don't know jack. I explained my problem, they replaced T-Stat refridge side, onother time they replaced door gasket, still not cold enough, found your website, got all the answers. Ordered and installed,defrost heater and T stat assy and adaptive defrost control. Remove shelves freezer side, remove evaporator cover 1/4" nutdriver ,defrost with hair drier, unsnap elec. connector and relaced part. The ADC, removed screws mounted on roofside was able to lower plastic panel enough to unplug the ADC, it just laid there, removed and replaced. Don't know which part was bad, but I do know that they are interconnected, at this point I din't care to defrost manually which I did for the last 7 months. Thanks for your guidance. USMC Ross
Other Parts Used:
Ross from River Grove, IL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Freezer worked fine but the Refrig. wasn't getting cold
My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.
Other Parts Used:
Lucy from Menifee, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
7 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
5 questions answered by our experts.
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Rick
January 10, 2018
6 months ago i replaced the defrost heater & thermostat assy, because it was shorting on the metal fin of the evaporator and the freezer wasn't defrosting. Now the freezer stopped defrosting again but the heater assy looks fine. How do i test the heater for continuity and what resistive value am i supposed to see on the ohm meter? Or do i test for voltage? What sort of test do i perform? According to what i've seen so far, it's either the heater assy, or the adaptive defrost board that causes this problem. What do you think?
For model number WP61006199
Hi Rick,
Thank you for your question. Before you test the part for continuity, please unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet or turn the circuit breaker off and then remove the heater from the refrigerator. A continuity test will not work on some defrost heaters, because the ohms reading may be too high to register on a continuity test. If you have an auto ranging multimeter, set it to the ohms setting. If you have a manual ranging multimeter, set it to the lowest ohms setting. Place one of each of the probes on each of the heater's wires or terminals. You should get an approximate reading of 10 to 150 ohms. If the display on the meter does not change or if your ohms reading is far off from that then you have a bad heating element. Where there is a thermostat attached to the heater you will need to make sure that it has cooled down below its closing temperature before doing the ohms test. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jim
September 11, 2017
Ice maker door seems to open and close properly. I get frost build up between the shut and the door?
For model number MZD2766GES
Hi Jim,
Thank you for the question, Sounds like the door might be bent or warped enough to let a bit of air through and it is causing the frost build up. I suggest replacing the Ice Dispenser Solenoid and Door Kit.
Hope this helps!
My freezer/frig runs, then stops and almost thaws, then runs again. I went into the top refrig area and took the cover of the controls and when i move some items, the compressors starts, but usually stops. It's this reason that i do not think it's the defrost heater/thermostat. Compressor looks clean. The freezer has half frozen food and the frig not cold. Ideas?
For model number MZD2766GES
Hello Ken, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Run Capacitor,PartSelect Number PS11743364. This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing.Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Boa tarde
Como faço pra comprar a
Resistência degelo
Aqui do brasil
Meu cep é 18706- 100
For model number Jenn air / JSD 2389 GES
Oi Bianca, infelizmente não enviamos para o Brasil. Eu entraria em contato com o fabricante diretamente para as lojas locais. Obrigado pela sua pergunta e boa sorte com o seu reparo!
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Francis
January 12, 2020
My freezer working fine but ref.Is not cooling at all
For model number mzd2766ge
Hello Francis and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty defrost heater and thermostat PS11743281 and/or a faulty run capacitor PS11743364, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11743281
Manufacturer Part Number: WP61006199