Product Description
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor Specifications
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.This flame sensor is three inches long and is used for many gas clothes dryers.This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Not Heating
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo, Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana.
Part# WP338906 replaces these:
AP6008294, 14205529, 14210083, 14218928, 3-3377, 303377, 338906, 35001096, 56231, 63-5013, DC32-00008A, DE353, K35-194, R0611503, WP338906VP, Y303377, Y56231
Customer Reviews
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Joel S - December 10, 2020
Verified Purchase
As expected
But was not the real problem
Stephen P - September 27, 2018
Verified Purchase
Perfect fit
The part was the perfect fit and repaired our 20 year old gas dryer.
Richard N - August 25, 2018
Verified Purchase
fixed intermittent issue with gas valve ratcheting noise
Had bouts of intermittent noise coming from the gas valve for several months.Dryer was working OK apart from this ratcheting, high speed bouts of clicking noise from the gas valve. Cleaned the sensor window but no difference. Sensor is supposed to short circuit secondary gas valve coil with a no flame condition but had bad contact and would not open completely when sensing a proper flame. Hysteresis is provided by a small magnet at the contact and it was probably weak with age. This allowed intermittent contacts at the transition point. Easy repair. Been working fine for a month now.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 38 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
Other Parts Used:
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Michael from Kirkwood, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
444 of 522 people
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dryer would not heat.
I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.
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Russell from LA VERNE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
156 of 174 people
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Maytag Dyer stopped heating
My 20 yr old Maytag dryer had experienced this problem about 10 years ago. At that time I replace the Gas Dyer Radiant Flame sensor and it fixed the problem. I figured a sensor went bad again however I opted to replace all of the sensors at once thinking I'm avoiding potential future issues and the dryer will out live me. Replacing the sensors is a piece of cake on my Maytag. A nutdriver and srewdriver was all that I needed. PartSelect was great to deal with and the parts did the trick.
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Doug from Walden, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
71 of 99 people
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
47 of 64 people
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Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat
I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.
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Richard from Jerome, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
35 of 55 people
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Dryer would light at start and then not light.
I used the trouble shooting part of this site and bought the radiant flame sensor and the high limit thermostat. Installation was very easy. The original problem still persisted and then purchased the temp. control thermostat, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. These parts installed easily as well and the problem still existed.
While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.
This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.
I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.
The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.
Thanks Parts Select ! !
Gregg heagney
While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.
This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.
I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.
The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.
Thanks Parts Select ! !
Gregg heagney
Other Parts Used:
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Gregg from Sedro Woolley, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
31 of 33 people
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Dryer would not heat up.
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++
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Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
26 of 30 people
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Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.
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Christy from Riley, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
24 of 29 people
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Dryer shut down before clothes were dry
... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!
Other Parts Used:
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Donald from Madison, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
21 of 30 people
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Heat Would Not Come On
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.
Other Parts Used:
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Lynn from Novi, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
19 of 23 people
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Questions and Answers
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Bill
August 14, 2017
How do I know that the heat sensor is bad? My igniter lights but gas valve does not open.
For model number NGD4500VQ0
Hi Bill,
Thank you for your inquiry. You can test your sensor with a multi-meter to see if it is still working. First you will have to disconnect the power to your appliance and then remove the sensor. Second you will set your multi-meter to the lowest setting and then calibrate it to show zero. Take each probe of your meter and touch one to each of the prongs on your sensor. If the meter continues to show zero or infinite ohms, your sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Good luck with your repair!
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Jeff
November 7, 2018
In reference to response to my prior question "you will need to check the radiant Flame sensor, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, the igniter, the heater assembly and the high limit thermostat", is there documents on exactly what and how to check each of the parts referenced? Thank you again...
Hi Jeff, thank you for your question. Unfortunately no. However you would test all of those parts with a multi meter. Your radiant flame sensor, thermostats, and thermal fuses should be testing 0 ohms to be working. Your igniter should read between 50 - 400 ohms. Your heating element should read between 0 - 50 ohms. You will need to remove all of those parts before testing to have accurate results. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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John
November 28, 2018
Regarding the advice you offer on testing electrical components with a multi-meter.Testing coils is a good example as digital meters send pulses and analog meters send constant current. Coils react differently to these. Do the numbers you use apply to both digital and analog meters? I figure the ignitor and sensors do not have this (possible) issue. Tyia
For model number MDG2500BWW
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. To test a radiant flame sensor, Set a multimeter to the lowest ohms of resistance setting. The sign for ohms looks like a horseshoe, and depending on your model, this setting could be RX1, 200, 2K, or X10. Touch the probes together on an analog meter and rotate the dial on the side of the meter until the needle rest at zero on the far right of the display. Pull the wire connectors off the flame sensor terminals. Touch one multimeter probe to one of the flame sensor terminals and touch the remaining terminal with the remaining probe. If the needle sweeps to the right and rest at zero on the analog meter, or it the digital meter displays zeros, the flame sensor is good. If your meter displays any other reading, the sensor is bad and must be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Dean
October 18, 2017
The igniter lights and the gas lights and it burns for a few seconds and then kicks out. It then relights about 30-40secs later and then lights for few seconds and then out again. I have already replaced the highlimit thermostat and the two coils, but it is still performing the same way. What else could it be?
For model number LDG9316AAE
Hi Dean,
Than you for your question. I would suggest checking this part, your igniter, your thermal fuse, and your gas valve. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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George
January 23, 2018
Igniter doesn't come on
For model number wgd5860sw0
Hi George, Thank you for your question. I would suggest doing a couple tests on some of the main parts that usually go out in a situation like this. You can use a multi meter. I would say first test your M series coils, then your thermostats, and then your igniter, and radiant flame sensor. Those are the most common parts to go out. All of them should read 0 ohms when testing them. The igniter however should test anywhere between 50 and 400 ohms of resistance. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Tracy
September 10, 2017
My dryer stopped heating. I cleaned out the lint from around the drum and it heated long enough to dry a small load. The next day it would not heat. I removed the flexible duct, and it heated for about 10 minutes. Do i need a new sensor?
For model number MDG9700AWW
Hi Tracey,
Thank you for your inquiry. It could be your sensor, I would suggest also taking a look at your fuse and your thermostats as well. If your fuse is out then your machine will not heat. If your thermostats are not working right they could be reading the wrong temperature and shutting down the machine because it thinks that it is getting too hot. Good luck with your repair.
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Wayne
January 24, 2020
Dry does not light, but glow plug work, is it the radiant Flame sensor
For model number Gdg608
Hi Wayne. Most likely it is the igniter. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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Michael
August 3, 2017
Keeps giving e1 code
For model number 110.92822102
Hi Michael,
Thank you for the question. The E1 error code indicates that there is an open Thermostat which is used as a temperature sensor. Since you can not fix those, you will have to replace it.The part number needed is PS11746740.
Hope this helps!
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Larry
April 6, 2018
We had a company replace the heat sensor and the element , still did not work, exhaust internal in the dryer has been thoroughly cleaned out as well as the dryer vent duct to outside, another sensor put on and still does not heat?? what other part could it need??
For model number MDE9700AYW
Hello Larry, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: thermistor, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat (part# WP35001092 for an electric dryer, safety thermostat, and the electronic control board. You can test the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!
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Lori
November 27, 2017
Where are the fuses?
For model number NGD4700YQ0
Hi Lori,
Thank you for your question. One of your fuses is located on your heat box on the back of your appliance, the other fuse is located on your blower wheel housing. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number: WP338906
Manufacturer Part Number: WP338906
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