This cycling thermostat has a limit of 153 degrees Fahrenheit, meaning that your dryer will cut out when the internal temperature reaches 153 degrees. It kicks back in though, when the temperature drops by 15 degrees Fahrenheit. This thermostat is just about two inches long.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot
This part works with the following products:
Dryer.
This part works with the following products:
Amana, Maytag, Speed Queen, Crosley.
Part# WP503979 replaces these:
14218933, 503979
Questions and Answers
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Robert
September 17, 2017
How do I test this part with a meter
Hi Robert,
Thank you for the question, Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature.
If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
Hope this helps!
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Greg Jordan
February 21, 2019
I need a cycling thermostat it is burnt up is there something else that would have caused that to happen
For model number sde3606ayw
Hello Greg, Thank you for contacting us. Looking at your model information there are a few parts that you should take out and test to see which one is giving you the issue. The first parts to check in this case would be all of your thermostats and thermal fuses. You can test those parts with a multi meter and they should be reading 0 ohms to be working correctly. If those parts are fine, you should then go on to testing your heating element as well. You can also test that with a multi meter and it should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms. Something else you should also check would be your filter and ducts. Make sure there is absolutely no blockage that would restrict air flow in your appliance. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Luke
May 1, 2023
Dryer shuts off when it gets hot will start back up when it cools off
For model number Dle330raw
Hi Luke, thank you for the question. A dryer vent clogged with lint or other obstructions will force the dryer to work harder, causing the unit to overheat. When too much heat builds up in your dryer, lint or debris in the dryer vent line can ignite, resulting in a dryer fire. The overheating shutoff is the last attempt of the dryer to prevent a fire. If your dryer has stopped mid-cycle due to overheating, you may need to clean it as soon as possible to help prevent a dryer fire. If this does not resolve the issue, we recommend you replace the thermal fuse, part number PS11742274. We hope this helps!
Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 14 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
would run but would not heat
removed front cover and top took drum out remove heating unit replced limit switch and fuse reinstalled installed new idler put new belt around drum installed drum replaced glides put top back on and front cover . then replaced boosting heater witch is on the blower also cycling thermostat
... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!
Based on my research, the thermal fuse could be blown out so I tested it and it was. I've replaced the thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. bam! it's up and running again. I'd highly recommended ordering your parts thru PartSeclect..the order was easy and shipping is quick. Thanks
DIAGNOSTICS: Unplug dryer to reset controls. Remove lower cover. Plug back in. Start dryer. If flame starts and goes out in a few seconds, probably the cycling thermostat (located centrally near bottom of dryer) is bad. It fits in the center of the thermostat heater (not replaced). Use the on-line schematic. I reset the controls (as above) again and jumpered the cycling thermostat. This time the flame stayed on. I turned off dryer before High Limit Thermal Fuse could blow out. Only a trained electrician should do the above. REPAIRS: Decided to remove main cover, to get better angle on thermostat screws. Unplugged. Removed door first. Be gentle with wires. Be careful with drum, it will simply fall out if jarred. Remove two screws for cycling thermostat. Remove wires, replace cycling thermostst. Reassemble. Be sure drum is still on rollers on back and anti-friction strips in front. SHORTCUT: If you use an articulated socket wrench on the thermostat screws, you can save your self the trouble of removing the front cover, door, and possibly drum.
Other Parts Used:
Jeffrey from Morris, IL
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer would cycle on once then wouldnt continue to heat to dry
I first unpluged the dryer then removed the bottom cover (two screws) then found the correct socket and removed the components and replaced them wire for wire. PLugged it back in and strated the dryer and watched the process. Unforunately it cycled twice and then stopped working. I went to a local appliance store to buy another high limit fuse because I thought it blew and happened to talk about the situation to a man behind the counter and he insisted it was the gas coils so I bought some and replaced them and its working fine now without replacing any more components. Im not a aapliance repair man but mechanically inclined but experience does pay. Hey, everything is easy if you know how...
I asked the Gas Co. if they can come out and relight the pilot to my dryer... (which is common for gas dryers) He tested the equipment and told me that the thermostat was the problem. Most places was looking for around $160 for parts and labor. Well, I saved around 130, as I just simply replaced the thermostat. DONE DEAL!
Other Parts Used:
Michell from Inglewood, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Wrench set
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Dryer would not start
Remove bottom panel from dryer. disconnect wires off of Limit switch. Unscrew 2 screws, remove old switch. Reverse to install. Important, if limit goes bad you need to replace cycling thermostat or chances are the limit will go out again. (Limit on back wall of dryer). The cycling thermostat is right under the lint screen. Remove 3 wires. Remove 2 screws, remove switch. Reverse to install new cycling thermostat. Toatl cost of 2 parts used 16 dollars and change. Thanks
Took the cover off the front of the dryer by removing the two screws that hold the cover in place. Then removed the two screws that held the heating element in place and removed the heating element. Removed the screws that held in the theremostats and then disconnected the two wires and put them on the new thermostat. Rescrewed them in with excisting screws and then put the heating element back in. Put the cover back on and turned on the dryer, and presto it all works again.
YouTube's videos to diagnose potential issues. Found the parts at a great price at Parts Select website. Had the parts in 2 days. Installed them dryer works like new.
Removed lower and upper panel on front of dryer, realized I did not have to remove upper but it was better visually. I replaced coils using old cage replacing two coils paying attention to position. Next I replaced cycling thermostat and boosting heater (which piggy back). Lastly I replaced Radiant flame sensor (which was working, but old). Everything worked perfect for a little over a hundred dollars, a repair person would have cost me $ 75 to $ 80 dollars for a handshake plus parts and labor. I am very pleased.
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Michael P V - December 29, 2018
Verified Purchase
Repaired my dryer which was overheating and shutting down
The new part fit perfectly and the dryer is working as it should. The dud part was the cycling thermostat which turns the heating element on and off as required to maintain the design temperature; it wasn't doing that, which caused the dryer to overheat and trigger the high temperature limit thermostat/switch to shut everything down. The only negative was the long delivery - I waited 6 days for it to arrive.
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it....
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit. The ele...
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11742780
Manufacturer Part Number: WP503979
