WFW9400ST02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I am a 63 yr old woman. I was able to remove the washer door, take off the broken hinge, install the new hinge, and place it back on the front of the washer in less than 15 minutes! It is a front load washer and designed for one person to do this. I YouTubed a less that 2-minute video first. The hinge fit perfectly!

Did the repair just like the video on your website. Was really easy.

It was fast and pretty easy to do.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

REMOVE HOSES AND POWER PLUG REATTACH EVERYTHING AND THEN DONE.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Opened lower front panel to access the motor controller. Took a picture of the wiring attached to the front of the controller. Removed two wiring harnesses and one wire with a retainer clip. Removed the faulty controller. Inserted the new controller, replaced the wiring, using the picture to insure correct positioning (although that really wasn't necessary because the wiring clips could probably only be put in the correct places). Replaced the front cover, plugged in the washer and fired it up.

Followed video clip that I found online