RTW4516FW1 Roper Washer - Instructions

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much

I already had the old agitator out, so when I got the new one I put it in the tub. You have to spin it a little so it seats properly. I then tightened the bolt with a 7/16” socket and my wife was washing a load within 15 minutes

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Replaced the drive belt and shift actuator but that did not fix the problem! So I ordered a transmission and this still did not fix it! I give up! Time to get a new washer!

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

Super easy. Watch the video on YouTube.

Removed the attaching bolt and then removed the Upper Agitator Assembly. I removed the damaged parts and installed the Agitator Repair Kit and Re-installed the NEW Upper Agitator Assembly.

All of our wash was smelling like mildew. It was making us nauseas . After the repair everything smelled fresh and clean again. We received our parts within three days.

Thanks

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.

Thanks for making finding part so easy . . . .

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Pulled up on fabric softener dispenser and removed it. Had to use pliers to remove cap and seal to get access to the bolt holding the agitator in.

Realized my socket extension wasn’t long enough so went to Lowe’s and bought another.

Was unable to hold the bottom of the agitator to keep it still and get enough leverage to remove the bolt. I poured hot water over it and then climbed into the washer and used my foot to hold the vanes still while I removed the bolt. Once I got the agitator out, the rest was a breeze. Separated the top of the agitator from the bottom by placing it on the floor, using my feet to hold it down and pulling up to remove the top part of the agitator.
Turned the top of the agitator upside down and removed the cam and feed dogs. Assembled the new one and held the agitator top horizontally while placing the new part back in.
Reassembled the top and bottom of the agitator and put it back into the washer. Tightened the bolt, replaced the cap with its seal and pressed the fabric softener dispenser back into place.

I ordered these parts for next day delivery. The next morning they were on my door step!

I pulled off the plastic cover inside the agitator, under the softener dispenser and replaced the old "O" rign with the new one. Next I used a 3/8" socket with a 6" extension to loosen the agitator nut and removed it. The one on our machine was on rather tightly - a bit too tight in my estimation.

The upper part of the agitator lifted easily. I lifted out the cog mechanism and studied it. I took the new parts, and assembled them, using the old parts for visual reference. All of this took about ten minutes. Be sure you push firmly on the retainer until it locks in place to keep the cogs in their slots.

Next I spent about 15 minutes cleaning up the agitator just because I like to put stuff back together in 'clean condition'.

Next I replaced the thrust bearing. The instruction specified a special grease to lubricate the thrust bearing - order this when you order the parts. The original one had no grease on it and was quite worn. I used food grade vaseline. You could probably also use silicone lube on this, the part is nylon.

After I cleaned the assembly and put in the new thrust bearing, I replaced the agitator. I had slight difficulty lining up two grooves on the cog holder for the guides in the main agitator mount but got them lined up on the third try - that took less than a minute. I put the new washer on the nut, inserted the nut and tightened it down - be careful not to over tighten, just make sure it is snugged down.

Over-all this is a fairly straight-forward repair job and is not difficult - anyone who can follow easy to read instructions and run a socket wrench can do this. I would only caution to make sure the new cogs are correctly oriented in their holder. Study how the original is assembled so you can duplicate it with the new parts. Just for the record, the nut is standard right hand thread - lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I think these parts are made to fail on purpose - if the machine gets over loaded and the agitator can't work it will chew up the cogs rather than break the agitator. Good thinking on some engineer's part!

I was lucky when I found Parts Select - I'll come here for my parts from now on!