PVM1790SR1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

Remove entire door from lifting pin hinges (just open & lift up the door & pull) - lay door on a flat surface face down.
Remove black plastic trim around inside of door using a butter knife to pry out & away - this just clips in & is very easy to remove - be careful & take it slowly. Removing the trim exposes a metal frame.
OK now unscrew the 4 screws from around the edges of the metal frame you have just uncovered when removing the plastic trim.
Now the hard part - the metal frame is still clipped in place by little plastic tabs all around the perimeter. You need to use a thin blade to push each clip back in turn while also lifting the frame from the door at the same time - this is where the Auto trim tools came in handy to stop the frame that is already free of the tabs you have pushed back and stop it from falling back and clipping closed again. This is a pain of a process but start on the clips at the bottom edge of the door and work clockwise. Eventually the frame pops out and you can now just take off the 2 screws holding the old handle and replace.
Putting the door back together is straightforward (don't forget to put back the 4 screws you took out).

Replaced all 3 switches and Holder for all 3 switches. All is working great now.

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Removed two Phillips screws removed old cover installed new cover secured screws. Easy Peezy
Parts select made it really easy

Remove 1 screw, remove light bulb and replace and replace screw. No problem.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

I did some research and found the part through this website. Very easy to change the heater sheath, just took long to take everything apart. Looked at some diagrams to see exactly where the part was.

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.