PVM1790SR1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove 1 screw, remove light bulb and replace and replace screw. No problem.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Remove entire door from lifting pin hinges (just open & lift up the door & pull) - lay door on a flat surface face down.
Remove black plastic trim around inside of door using a butter knife to pry out & away - this just clips in & is very easy to remove - be careful & take it slowly. Removing the trim exposes a metal frame.
OK now unscrew the 4 screws from around the edges of the metal frame you have just uncovered when removing the plastic trim.
Now the hard part - the metal frame is still clipped in place by little plastic tabs all around the perimeter. You need to use a thin blade to push each clip back in turn while also lifting the frame from the door at the same time - this is where the Auto trim tools came in handy to stop the frame that is already free of the tabs you have pushed back and stop it from falling back and clipping closed again. This is a pain of a process but start on the clips at the bottom edge of the door and work clockwise. Eventually the frame pops out and you can now just take off the 2 screws holding the old handle and replace.
Putting the door back together is straightforward (don't forget to put back the 4 screws you took out).

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

I did some research and found the part through this website. Very easy to change the heater sheath, just took long to take everything apart. Looked at some diagrams to see exactly where the part was.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.