NED4655EW1 Amana Dryer - Instructions

unplugged the dryer-- opened the back of dryer--tested the element--found there was a break in the element--ordered a new element--put everything back togethered and it worked. 10 screws held the back wall on--2 screws and 2 wires to disconnect the element---not very difficult!!

unplugged the electrical cord, took the back off the drier, unplugged wires from the bad heat unit. took couple of screws out that hed it in place, removed it , installed the new one plugged wires back , put the back on , plugged in electric cord. turned it on and that was all , works great. the part you guys sent was identical to the original . thanks. Ken

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

To be short and sweet, the repair was simple once I got the parts I ordered which came really quick. I put them on and it worked fine. Ez to install as well. It only takes half the time to dry, it seems to work better than when it was new. I saved hundreds. The repair man was going to charge $69.99 just to come out to see what the problem was. The parts I needed were under $100 so figured I'd try an do it myself, after reading others repair stories. I did it! I will be a repeat customers if something else breaks down. Thanks Partselect.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

Simply checked the thermostats for conductivity and found that they were working properly. Removed the heating element to check for conductivity and discovered a broken coil. If I had the part ready to go the whole process from taking off the first screw to replacing the element to screwing on the last screw would have taken less than 15 minutes. Very simple repair that I almost paid a service technician an additional amount for something that a novice DYI'er could do.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

This was soo much easier then I thought!!! Make sure you unplug the dryer FIRST!! I removed the bolts that held the dryer back with the socket wrench. The removed the 2 screws that held the heating element in place. Disconnecting the cords was a little harder but will come off with the pliers. There is that piece of your old heating element that you need to remove to put on the new one that was hard to get off. its being held on by a metal lip and at first I couldnt figure out how to get it off, but then I just kept bending it (the metal lip) until I was able to get the piece off of it. Then just connect the wires onto the same points that your removed them from. Replace screws and back of the dryer and WaLa!!! You've just saved yourself the price of labor for an electrician.... Trust me if I can do this YOU can... My husband thought I was crazy.. I get shocked changing light bulbs but my dryer is drying a load of clothes as we speak!!!

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Unplugged Dryer.

Removed back panel & dryer hose - About 10 screws

Removed Heating element - two screws

Followed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.

Cleaned lint and dust from inside dryer.

Replaced back panel and dryer hose.

Tested dryer, works like new.

Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.