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MVWB300WQ1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MVWB300WQ1
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noisy
Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.
Parts Used:
Outer Tub Assembly
  • Donald from Ormand Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Top bearing frozen and had to be cut out
Using instructions that came with parts and google and utube
Parts Used:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
  • Raymond from League City, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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noisey water discharge pump
PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • MEECHE from LANCASTER, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Hole in casing of drain pump due to loose nickle being pulled into pump - No screen in inlet to pump
Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • CARROLL from HENDERSONVILLE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Bearing's were shot and seal leaked water every where.
Replaced bearings, seal and new shaft. Washer never sounded this good, well I can't even tell it's running now. Very quiet. Just watch all the you tube vids on replacing seal and bearings and you shouldn't have any problems !
Parts Used:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
  • Donald from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Drain Pump Leaks
Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Stuart from King George, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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Old hinge broke, door did not open and close right.
I removed the screws from old hinge that had broke. The piece came right out with ease. I slid the new hinge in to the hole that it went in. No struggles with ease. Lined up the screw holes and put the screws back in. Finished! Works like a charm.
Parts Used:
Hinge
  • tntsplace.com from MCALLEN, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Washer making noise down close to bottom of machine.
First unplug electrical, disconnect all hoses. If there is a large volume of water left in the machine you need to get it out.Pull machine out so you will have room to work. Lay machine front face down. Remove drive belt, inspection cover.Take the hose clamps back up the hose,remove hoses from pump. Remove the three screws that hold the pump in place.Replace pump, take steps back as you removed the pump to restore machine to operation.Total time 45 min. I am old and slow.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Ronald from Demopolis, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Won't drain the water
It was not easy but I dit my sell
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Jose from Verobeach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
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The recirulation pumps was making a really rough noise when running. water would not enter into the washer when started
To start out, I ordered two parts for a washer, a water valve and a recirculation pump. I found out that one of the solenoid switches went bad on the valve body. I tried to find just this switch but found out that you have to buy the whole valve assembly just to get one of the switches. The recirculation pump was making a really bad noise when it would run. The problem with the pump, the impeller that pushes the water out of the pump was in pieces in the pump head housing. I paid to rush the delivery so the washer was not unusable for every long. The parts showed up as planned with one problem. One of the solenoid switches was not attached to the valve body, it was broken off of the valve body. I called the service number that was on the packing slip. The lady I spoke with about the broken part apologized and quickly placed another order with the same part. Down side was she could not get it sent out that day because it was late afternoon on a Friday and the shipping department was closed. So the earliest I would receive the part would be the following Tuesday. She did refund my rush delivery cost, so i paid for just standard delivery. I had the recirculation pump on the Friday I was hoping for but still could not get the washer running until I received the water valve the following Tuesday. I told the lady I understand her hands are tied about shipping the part out that day, Since there was nobody there to ship it. I also understand that sometimes things do get broke in transit. The part was delivered on the following Tuesday as promised. I opened up the package to inspect it. This time the part inside the package was packed a little different and a little more secure. I was glad the service department was easy to deal with, very respectful and willing to correct the problem. All and All The repair went really well, had no problems installing the parts what so ever. (To make things a little easier to remember where they go)Leave the old wire harness intact with the old water valve when you remove it. Once the new water valve is install you can reference how to install the new wire harness from the old water valve. The pump had 3 screws and 2 hose clamps to remove it. It is easier if you can tilt the washer forward (just a little) to change out the pump. You can change out the pump without tilting the washer, just easier if tilted. I would order from partSelect again. I would recommend my friends and family to order from partSelect.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve with Wire Harness Circulation Water Pump
  • Brian from Eagle Mountain, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Hinge pins were sheared off
I removed the screws holding the broken hinges and put the new hinges on. It only took a few minutes.
Parts Used:
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw Hinge
  • James from Carrollton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Bearings noisey
Followed instruction sheet. Removd tub assembly, Laid, washer on side, removed motor and necessary wiring, removed drive shaft, bearings and seal assembly, cleaned all areas, installed new parts. Reassembled.
Parts Used:
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
  • Harley from Flower Mound, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Lid lock not engaging.
Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.
Parts Used:
Lid Lock Assembly
  • George E from Lakeland, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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All Instructions for the MVWB300WQ1
61 - 73 of 73