This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$9.68
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This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
$48.11
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This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307
$168.05
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This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
$122.84
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This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To c...
$56.04
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This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$10.25
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This is a replacement lid hinge for your washer. It is approximately 2.5 inches in length and 1.5 inches in width. The lid hinge is what the lid for your washer pivots on. If the lid hinge is damaged,...
$14.15
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Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$12.00
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Questions And Answers for MVWB300WQ1
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James
December 9, 2022
this machine starts the spin cycle for about 3-4 seconds, then starts veratic bouncing and immediately shuts off due to a UL code. I know the code is symtymatic of an unbalanced condition. I the problem lie with worn shock absorbers Only, or could the problem be something other than that ?
For model number MVWB300WQ1
Hello James, thank you for your inquiry. We have researched your model and would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: basket hub kit, part number PS11723155, suspension spring kit, part number PS2355518, and tub seal and bearing kit, part number PS3503261. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order, anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope that helps.
Does the type matter when ordering a bearing kit for this washer?
For model number MVWB300WQ1
Hello Julia, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found this appliances doesn't have a type number. The Tub Seal and Bearing Kit, PartSelect Number PS3503261 is the correct kit for this model. We hope this helps!
Hello Barbara, thank you for reaching out. The problem seems to be with the tub seal and bearing kit and you may need to replace it, the part number is PS3503261. We hope this solves your problem!
Washer do not finish any cycle. Stop at 13 minutes and never finish the washing cycle
For model number MVWB300WQ1
Hi Gustavo,
Thank you for your question. If your washer is stopping midway through a cycle, the washer lid may not be closing correctly or there is an issue with the lid lock assembly. If the lid lock bezel is out of alignment and not coming into contact with the lid lock assembly, it can prevent the washer from working normally. Also if the lid lock assembly is defective, it can also prevent the washer from working normally. You will need to test the lid lock assembly with a multimeter to see if it has continuity. From our website, with your multi-meter on the Rx1 setting, touch the probes to the terminals, then press and hold the switch button down. You should receive a reading of zero.
If you do not receive this reading, you will need a replacement lid lock assembly. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
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Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.
Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.
At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).
Re-assemble using new pump.
Note: Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together.
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.
I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.
I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.