MFI2570FEZ05 Maytag - Instructions

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

Removed the old frame and removed the metal rod from the front of the old and slide it in to the new frame.
Then I took a piece from the old frame, measured the distance to the center of the two shelf brackets mounted inside in the rear of the refrigerator. Then I drilled two holes in the salvaged piece and mounted the piece as a support under the new frame using #8 sheet metal stews. This will prevent future breaks.

It was a very simple operation and was done in no time.

Doing it myself saved me at least $100.00 or more.

I was very happy and satisfied with the part and how doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.

I broke the left side end cap the holds the pantry door on.
I search the internet for the part and happened to run across part select. I order the part and received the part with in 3 business days. It took less than 30 minutes to replace the end cap.

The great reviews help me with my choice to order the part from part select. I will order parts from them again.

Thanks for helping me fix my fridge.

This took 30 seconds. Lift out shelf glass, remove broken pieces, snap new part into place.

Pulled the broken pantry door off, and snapped the new door in place. Vry simple.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

take out two nut driver screws remove piece, take off track two philips head screws. transfer temp control rod, really easy then put track back on and install piece. probable took as long to remove the two veg crispers and glass top. this is a very easy fix. i did notice that the pin on the original was about 3/8 of an inch forward so flapper door did not quite line up and im sure caused the pin to snap off. the replacement part, the pin is exactly the same position as the other side. i believe the original was defective from the mfgr.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Undid one screw in the back of the cover, pulled cover off, unattached module, installed new module reattached cover tighten screw done

I turned the light bulb into the socket

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

take the old one out replace with new once - no instructions required, no tools needed