MFB2055DRE00 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Opened filter housing, yanked out old filter, screwed in new filter - one turn.
For the air filter, opened housing. Lifted out old filter, dropped in new, closed housing.

Pulled drawers and freezer door off. Removed ice maker and fan cover. Then the back wall cover. Unplugged old thermistor and removed. Put new one in place and reinstalled everything. Works like a charm.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Super simple job. Unplug freezer. Have a hair dryer handy to defrost while you have unit open. Remove food from the bottom two shelves and floor of freezer. Remove mid plastic cover removing three screws. (All screws are same so mixing them is no big deal.) Use drill-driver or screw driver to spin out six screws on lower back plate. Remove plate. Thermistor is on left side of the cooling tubing. Use hair dryer to melt ice if necessary. Un-clip thermistor power connection, and unsnap it from tubing. snap new thermistor on cooling tube and hook up wiring. Ensure plug fits together correctly and snugly. If heavy icing exists, use hair dryer to melt ice on coils and through fan. Ensure water drains out of drain pan under coils. Wipe up as much ice melt as possible to prvent re-frosting upon start-up. Replace lower panel and six screws. Replace mid-panel cover and three screws and replace shelves. Done! Plug freezer back in and expect 30 second delay before unit will start up.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

This one is not as simple as popping it into channels or screwing it in.

I opened the freezer and removed the door from the drawers. To install it you need to hook the back of the gasket behind the white freezer liner. Mine was difficult because it seemed too small. I had to clip it behind the liner inch by inch. If you are not careful the gasket will pop out and you’ll need to start over. Definitely recommend you try with another person. If instructions were supposed to come with the gasket, they did not.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

First you have to pull power plug and after removing trays and door to freezer,, i removed ice maker and metal coil cover then i melted ice cake by using a space heater blowing in to freezer compartment ,, then i looked at how old part was mounted and installed my new one the same ,,, all this was done laying on my side up in freezer,,, it would have been easier if it was a top freezer rather than a bottom freezer like mine.i did all this hoping the defrost heat element was defective,any way it is back together working good.

The broken tracks popped off with a little effort, and the new tracks snapped in place. No tools required, except a screw driver helped to pop the broken tracks out, and snap the new ones in place.

Removed 2 screws holding cover (one on left; one behind air filter on rear wall), removed cover, removed styrofoam duct, unplugged and removed old damper. The styrofoam duct broke slightly during the removal process. This was easily fixed with some 3M spray adhesive. While the adhesive dried, I packed the air passage between the fridge & freezer with paper towels to help the fridge cycle a bit (this worked surprisingly well). After finally installing the new damper and repaired styrofoam duct, the fridge went right back to freezing the food again (I soon realized this was caused by a VERY SMALL air leak where the new damper mates with the flange located on the freezer). After making a gasket with some self adhesive1/8" thick weatherstripping and applying it to the damper, things are back to normal operation.