LAT8506AAM Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the LAT8506AAM
61 - 75 of 440

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Agitator was slipping,
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Lac du Flambeau, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 1 screw with 5/16'' nutdriver on lower area of agitator and unit slipped off spline like butter. Replaced with new unit and simply tightened the holding screw. Repair Dude wanted 179.50 for this repair. I saved over $100.00 doing this myself. Cool.
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unit stop working altogether a
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from Blackwood, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
descovered blown fuse on lid switch assembly. Checked out info on Parts Select.com they reccommended the lid switch assembly. I bought it putting it in was very easy! Problem solved!
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Tub Cover Split And Leaking
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Ambler, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed washing machine front cover (2 phillips screws on bottom half of panel). Then removed two bolts that hold the top in place. Lifted hinged top, removed tub cover which is held in place with plastic mounting tabs. That was it. Put everthing back together approx. 15 Minutes.
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Leaking Tub Seal
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jerry from haslet, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dreme l tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.
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leaking water under back left of washer
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The first thing I did was look at the diagrams for my specific appliance on the parts select web site to locate fastners. I removed the front panel(2 screws 4" from floor on front panel), then removed the corner bolts of top panel(found under in front). Next I removed the 4 screws on the control panel (on top). I located the screw hold ling the fill injector to the top Lid. Then I removed the clamp holding the unit to the regulator. Assembled the unit and placed it in position. First attaching the fill injector to top panel, then clamping the hose to regulator, then replacing 4 screws in control panel. Next the two corner screws in corners under the top panel. Replaced front panel and 2 screws. Then had a trail run and no water leaks any where.
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Water Leaking from underneath washer
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rocco from Kenvil, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.
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Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Hinkle, KY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't th e problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!
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washer was leaking
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jason from euless, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the i nner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.
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Top auger section won't stay locked together
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Manuel from Vacaville, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Ordered a new replacement agitator, removed the old agitator with the loosening of set screw on the base of agitator, which slips over the gear spline and installed the replacement agitator, tighten the set screw with nut driver, OH, you have to use the fabric softener cup, which snaps off the old agitator and install it on the new agitat or. Wha-la!
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Top of agitator was loose and would come off.
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from La Grange, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the nut from the bottom of the old agitator, slipped it off and put the new one on. After tightening the nut it worked just fine.
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Water would not shut off and continued to fill washer.
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brett from Decatur, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned off water supply and disconnected hoses. Removed rear cover where water valve was located. Marked and unplugged wires to valve along with interior hose connected to valve. Unscrewed two screws holding valve to rear cover. Installed new valve with all the above procedures in reverse. Very easy repair that saved us slot of money in s ervice call fees!
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agitator would not work
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Aurora, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes
... Read more />step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!
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Tub would fill but wouldn't go to next cycle.
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bret from arvada, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the lid switch assembly. The pictures were very helpful. Very easy to replace. Saved at least $150 doing it myself.
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Lid switch had went out.
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from Skiatook, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the rear panel of the washer, and removed the lid switch assembly. Then, replaced the old one with the new lid switch and plunger. Put the rear panel back on the washer, and started washing clothes again!!!!!! I think a monkey could have done it....
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The Dryer stopped working completely.
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elyse from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.
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All Instructions for the LAT8506AAM
61 - 75 of 440