LAT2301AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.

took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

1. Disconnected washer from power outlet.
2. Slid washer out from wall to allow access to rear.
3. Isolated water supply and removed both hot and cold water supply hoses from solenoid valve assembly.
4. Removed one screw holding angled metal bracket with water solenoid valves attached.
5. Rotated bracket to get it to clear back of washer and expose wiring and fill hose.
6. Removed hose clamp on fill hose with pliers and then removed hose from valve assembly..
7. Removed wires from each solenoid.
8. Removed one screw that attaches solenoid valve assembly to angled metal bracket.
9. Slid valve assembly to allow it to be released from angled metal bracket.
10. Reversed procedure to install new valve assembly.

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

My washer was sitting in a safety drain pan which made it difficult to work on due to the height of the pan walls. Managed to tilt it back and support on blocks well enough to access underside. Found two of the four leveling feet had fallen off, which was the ultimate cause of the problems from the cumulative effect of running unbalanced over time. Reinstalled these feet and had to remove rust to do so. I added two more nuts to the front feet to hold the adjustment tight. After adjusting to level, washer ran great and was no longer prone to unbalance. Procedure: Remove front panel- two lower screws and pry/pull off. Remove hoses at pump. Remove 3 mounting screws from pump. Remove belt from pump pulley. Push motor towards center of washer to release tension from other belt, and remove belt. Replace with new belt. Replaced old drain hose to pump and replaced all hose clamps with new. Install pump, replace pump belt. Level the washer. Replace front panel. Take the opportunity while the washer is open to clean out the dust from inside!

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

Removed front door from washer lifted front of washer off floor and removed belt’s put washer back on floor
Removed motor and slide
Cleaned and replaced slides and greased put back in washer secured
Then lifted front of washer back up replaced new belts and started the washer up worked great put front of washer back on done
Great instructions that came with parts