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KEHS02RMT1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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The belt you sent was too short
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Middlebury, IN
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too s
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hort belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.
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Noisy
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retain
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er clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
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couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Betty from Erie, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
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Dryer stopping during dry cycle.
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from HARTSELLE, AL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to remo
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ved the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****
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Lint filter seal worn out
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
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Old lint filter was broken
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Earl from Santa Ana, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just replaced the old lint filter.
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Dryer was Noisy
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from HARRODSBURG, KY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I simply followed the video and apart from a couple of areas that were not relevant to my model, everything went exactly as illustrated. The video is excellent and made the repair so easy.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back ... Read more and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back ... Read more and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
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Dryer not heating
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from CLARKSBURG, WV
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw hold
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ing heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.
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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Edgartown, MA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell
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inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
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Drum support roller making very loud noise
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from TROY, AL
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller
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Dryer would not heat
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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GARY from PARSONS, KS
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the p
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arts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.
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Dryer made squeaking noise, then more of a rumbling noise.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JAMES from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pul
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ley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.
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Very loud squeaking noise
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip from CHICAGO, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed all the panels, removed the tub, replaced the pulley, put the tub back in and replaced the panels. Just when I screwed the Last screw in the doorbell rang with the door switch which I installed immediately.
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Idler pulley seized
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from CREST HILL, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and rem
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ove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.
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My dryer was squeaking with an occasional thump
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from BOILING SPGS, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.
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