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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Scot from Oakland, FL
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly
... Read moreunder cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Two part burner, outer ring not working
36 of 42 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.
Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.
2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric
... Read more clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.
VERY SIMPLE.
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Switch failed
34 of 48 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
John from Fresno, CA
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I
... Read more could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.
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Inner element of dual burner died
19 of 22 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Van from Hyde Park, NY
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Turn off breaker -Undo the two screws that hold the top surface down -Prop up top surface with a board -Remove two screws/spring clips holding burner -Transfer electrical plugs to new burner (this was the most challenging part) -Screw new burner in place -Lower surface -Secure surface
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Electric range burner not working due to control switch
21 of 28 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Rodney from Erath, LA
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected
... Read moreto new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
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Center of large burner stopped working.
15 of 16 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
paula from East Grand Rapids, MI
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First and foremost, I am a 63 year old cooky baking GRANDMOTHER. I don't know anything about fixing appliances. I read the other repair stories pertaining to my burner and I thought, "why not." It was a snap!
My part arrived the very next day, bless you Parts Select! I just did what the others (see above) did: I remov
... Read moreed 2 screws to release the stove top, then I took a few digital photos to be sure I would know where the wires went. I released the old burner, pulled out the thingamajigs that held the wires in the old burner, then pushed the new ones in their place, replaced the stove top, plugged it back in, turned it on and jumped for joy! If I can do this, anyone can.
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Intermitently the switch would stick on high.
15 of 22 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Larry from Mattawa, WA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hol
... Read moree and secured.
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The shaft on the selector switch broke.
13 of 16 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from Porter Ranch, CA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
You have to replace the switch if the shaft breaks (I think we hit it with a pot). This is a flat glass cook top. Turn off the power at the breaker box. I took the drawers out below the cook top and loosened the bracket holding the electrical conduit. That allowed me to push up the cook top from below. There is some adhesive but nothing h
... Read moreold it except its own weight and the adhesive. You do not need to disconnect the conduit. Remove all of the knobs. Remove all of the Phillips screws around the upper perimeter. Do not remove any of the hex screws yet. When all of the screws are removed, lift the glass cook top off of the metal "guts." At this point there will only be adhesive holding it on. Now remove two hex screws at each end of the control strip. Remove the two Phillips screws from the subject switch. Lift up the the control strip, disconnect the electric leads to the switch, reconnect the leads to the new switch, and then re-attach the new switch to the control strip with the two Phillips screws. Then go backwards. Replace the control strip and secure with the two hex screws at each end. Before replacing the cook top, check the burners. They rest on posts with small springs designed to keep them flush with the glass cook top. Make sure that all of the burners are properly aligned on their posts and springs. Replace the cook top and re-attach with all of the Phillips screws. Return the cook top to its resting place making sure the adhesive strips are correctly placed around the perimeter. Replace the bracket on the conduit. Put the knobs back on. Flip the breaker back on and start cooking.
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RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
12 of 15 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Al from Ocala, FL
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and
... Read moreinstalled it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
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broken burner selector switch
8 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Mark from Fayetteville, AR
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off power to cooktop. Disconnected power wires and removed cooktop from counter. Removed screws holding on the cooktop surface. Separated cooktop surface from cooktop. Removed 4 screws holding control panel, then removed 2 screws holding selector switch. Removed 2 wires plugged into selector switch. Installed new selector swi
... Read moretch and reassembled cooktop.
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Outer ring of burner did not work
5 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Barry from Bradenton, FL
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1- opened oven door 2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench 3- unscrewed clips that held burner 4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner 5- placed wires onto new burner 6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner 7-reattached burner 8-Replaced top
... Read morer />The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws
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outside element burned out
4 of 4 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
peter from westfield, MA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs. plugged in the new element and screwed it in place
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The front right outer element was defective.
4 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Peter from Abbeville, LA
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven. -Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off. -Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. T
... Read morehis is a two person job preferably. -Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back. -Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up. -Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections. -The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose. -The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this. -Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips. -Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions. -Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs. -Lower the cook top back into its counter top position. -Return power to the cook top. -Installation complete. Very simple!
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Burner element was burnt
4 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Chandra from Naugaeuck, CT
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.
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Front left burner not heating enough
4 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jim from MILFORD CTR, OH
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
June 2019 0. TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER !!! 1. Lifted cooktop out of counter cutout. (It wasn't anchored) 2. I had just enough slack in the armored power cable to set the cooktop on the edge of the countertop cutout. 3. Removed black plastic control knobs 4. Removed about a dozen short screws around perimeter of c
... Read moreooktop. I think those were phillips head screws. 5. Lifted glass top straight up. Had to wiggle it a bit, to get the rubber washers on the control shafts, to slide up. 6. The new heater element did not have the 2 alignment brackets. These brackets have holes that slip over metal pins at each end. So, I removed the brackets from the old element, and attached them to the new element. 7. Set new heater element on top of old. Using needle nose pliers, pulled wires off of old element and clipped onto new element - ONE AT A TIME. 8. Slide old element out, and place new element brackets over alignment pins. 9. Now, on to the Infinite control switch. Removed a few screws around the metal housing that the controls are attached to. 10. Removed the 2 screws that hold the control to the metal housing. 11. Switched wires from old control to new - ONE AT A TIME. (Pay attention to the position of the wire blades on the control, and align it to match the old control, so that you will get the wires from the old control, onto the correct blades of the new control.) 12. Attached new control to metal housing, using 2 screws. 13. Re-assemble - Place glass top over control shafts. 14. Attach glass top by installing all of those short screws around the perimeter. 15. Place cooktop back into countertop cutout. 16. Turn on the circuit breaker. 17. Test all heating elements. ------------- Other notes - I actually removed the entire cooktop, including disconnecting the power connection, so that we could replace our kitchen countertop. One issue was that the new quartz countertop was 3/8" thinner than the old Formica top. So, the bottom of the cooktop was resting 3/8" lower than before. The shallow drawer below the cooktop was now hitting the bottom of the cooktop. My solution was to cut 3/8" off the back of the drawer. Problem solved. Good luck y'all.
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