JGP329SET1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

Replaced Spark Module and adjusted igniters

Replaced starter switch harness as well as igniter module. Cost was around $70 for parts. Cheaper than a new cooktop.

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

took burner off installed new one thank you for fast shipping

remove old burner, put new in place

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

Nothing technical.

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

The burner cap was a no brainer. The grate feet should have been also, but many of them were undersized so we had to maneuver them in such a way that they didn't fall out of the grates.

Easy to replace - caution to make sure spark igniter switch is aligned and secured in correct position on the gas valve. The switch should cover both mounting screws on the gas valve when properly installed/aligned

Good way to tell/verify what your problem is. On my GE Cooktop, moving any of the knobs to light cause a spark for all igniters. One of our knobs would not cause a spark. - Remove gas grills and covers. - Remove screws - Pull igniters up (be gentle to not crack them - Pull wire out from igniter - lift cover of cooktop - pull harness off each know and disconnect two wires - put new harness on and connect and backfill. Pretty easy overall.

Removed grill grates, gas distributors, etc. (just lift off). Used star screwdriver to remove screws (3 per burner for SML, 2 for power burner). Lift off stainless cover, which also lifts off the white sparkers I was replacing. Pull them off the wires (didn't need pliers, others said they did). Replace (make sure it is all the way on) and reverse your steps. White sparkers electrodes seemed loose when I put them back on, but tightened up when I fully secured the top back on. Make sure the wires aren't pinched underneath when you put the top back on. Recommended: If you've got one that isn't working, go ahead and replace all 3 (power burner is different) because the part is so cheap you may as well just do it now.

Replaced all four